Emeril's: Noisy, but some of the best food you'll ever have
Written: Sep 28 '99
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Product Rating:
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Pros: Fantastic, creative food and a memorable dining experience
Cons: Noisy! Also, can be difficult to get reservations
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| Chuq's Full Review: New Orleans |
Ecstasy.
Emeril Lagasse is not just the boisterous and charismatic chef that's gained nationwide popularity (and some would say infamy) from his programs on cable TV's Food Network, but is in fact one of the Crescent City's finest chefs, and one of America's finest as well. There are some arguments about the service at Emeril's -- some diners find it zealous and enthusiastic (I like it, myself); others have told me that they find it overly attitudinal. Your mileage may vary. What is never in question, though, is the quality of the food.
Chef Emeril's specialty is what he calls New New Orleans Cuisine, based upon and using key ingredients of the Creole classics but taking them in new and exciting directions, and his menu goes way beyond Creole to bring you new American cuisine at its best.
Everything in his bustling, noisy Warehouse-district restaurant is house-made, from the bacon to the Worcestershire sauce to the andouille and house-cured tasso. Portions are Gargantuan, each plate dances with color and texture, and side dishes are perfectly paired with their entrees (such as grilled Creole-seasoned chicken with a savory corn and andouille sausage bread pudding).
The menu often changes, although some favorites remain, and the daily specials are always exciting and wildly varied (such as crawfish and morel mushroom stuffed artichoke bottoms with a foie gras and roasted onion ragoût and a drizzle of celery purée).
For one of the most luxurious dining experiences you'll have in New Orleans or anywhere, try Emeril's degustation menu, which changes daily, and presents you with a seven-movement symphony of flavors. There are wines specially chosen to go with each degustation course as well. Here's an example of one degustation I enjoyed a while back:
Amuse Bouche: Homemade Hog's Head Cheese on Goat Cheese Crouton
Smoked Atlantic Salmon and Spinach Cakes with Choupiquette Caviar,
Traditional Garnishes, Infused Oils and a Chive Sour Cream
Pan Seared Scallops with a Saffron Asparagus Risotto, Fried Spinach,
Parmesan Cheese and a Saffron Tomato Broth
(1994 King Estate Oregon Pinot Gris)
Pan Crispy Flounder with a Lump Crab and Wild & Exotic Mushroom
Relish, Shaved Black Winter Truffles, a Drizzle of Red Pepper Paint
and a Lemon Truffle Butter Sauce
(1993 Puligny-Montrachet, Joseph Drouhin)
Roulade of Magret Duck Breast filled with an Avocado and Fig
Duxelle on a Bed of Wild Mushroom Bread Pudding topped with
Seared Hudson Valley Foie Gras and a Port Wine Blackberry-Strawberry
Reduction Sauce
(1992 Sky Mt. Veeder Zinfandel)
Roasted Lamb Chop with Truffle Mashed Bourbon Sweet Potatoes,
Apple Mint Relish, Fresh Rosemary and a Lamb Reduction Sauce
(1991 Corison Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon)
Assorted Chicory Farms Cheese, Toasted Walnut and Raisin Bread
with a Cranberry Orange Gastrique
Flourless Chocolate Cake with Whipped Cream, Raspberry Sauce and
Hawaiian Vintage Chocolate Sauce
Lagniappe: An Assortment of Emeril's Creole Bonbons, with a
Drizzle of Chocolate Sauce.
With the dessert we ordered a Fonseca 20 Year Old Tawny Port, and the lagniappe came when the waiter asked us how we enjoyed the meal; my dining companion Rich replied, "Disappointed." The waiter was shocked. "How were you disappointed?" he asked incredulously. "I'm disappointed that it's over, and that there are no more courses!" replied Rich. "Hmmmmm," mused the waiter. "There could be ... there could be another course ..." And lo and behold, there was!
By the way, if you're a wine connoisseur, the wine list in general is extensive, and the staff is very knowledgable and can assist you in your choices.
The number of choices on the entrée menu is actually surpassed by that of the dessert menu, overseen by Emeril's pastry chef "Mr. Lou" -- his signature dessert, the astonishingly rich Banana Cream Pie with Banana Crust and Caramel Drizzle Sauce, will leave you moaning and pounding on the table (I've seen it happen).
The one drawback to dining at Emeril's is the noise level -- the main dining room of the restaurant is a converted warehouse, and the din can get to be a bit much sometimes. And now that the restaurant is "trendy" because of Emeril's fame as a Food Network chef, it can be difficult to get reservations.
But it's worth it. Just do it.
Recommended:
Yes
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Epinions.com ID:
Chuq
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Member: Chuck Taggart
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Reviews written: 29
Trusted by: 81 members
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