Portland, A Southern Maine City With Surprises
Written: Nov 24 '04 (Updated Oct 08 '07)
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Pros: Small enough to see it all with fine restaurants, many shops, and an excellent museum.
Cons: The streets take a bit of time to navigate.
The Bottom Line: I liked this town for its unexpected treasures and very friendly people.
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| popsrocks's Full Review: Portland |
After driving through Portland for 35 years on the Maine Turnpike on our way to Maine's many tourist destinations I finally managed to spend a few days in Portland and was I ever pleased! Being from NY and loving Manhattan it takes something special for me to get excited about. Portland has that "something special". I also found out that, besides being Maine's oldest city, it also has a thriving downtown area that caters to tourists.
My wife, two daughters and I spent a few days in the Portland area checking out a school for my daughter. We stayed at the Howard Johnson's Hotel right off exit 48 of the Maine Turnpike. This is about five miles from downtown Old Port area.
Update, this review, though written from the perspective of our first visits to Portland is now supported by more information as we have grown to love Portland the more we explore what it offers.
Arriving by car
On Friday night we went in to see what we could and have some dinner. Driving through the side streets and reading maps wasn't all that difficult. The streets are somewhat organized in a grid but the names are all different. No number system like Manhattan. We were there in Maine's off season, so I imagine traffic could manage to slow down to a crawl. Ask locals about the best way to get into town. It may cost you and extra .50 to get onto the Turnpike but it seems that, depending on what part of the city you are going to, traffic can be beat by doing the interstates of 95 and 295. I did it once that way and it certainly seemed to get me there faster. There are also a number of hotels in the city itself.
Another thing about the city is that there is limited on the street parking. We did manage in the off season. There are however, many self-park public garages well situated around the city that are relatively inexpensive at less than $10 per day and are well lighted and look safe. I now drive around once, if I don't find a spot, and many of them are metered at only fifteen minutes, I drive right into the many well situated parking lots.
Old Port
When looking on a map you'll notice that most of Portland's city area is east of the interstate and then makes its way down to the waterfront. The waterfront area to the east and a few blocks back west of it is the downtown area of Portland known as Old Port. This area was a historic warehouse section that has been revitalized in the last twenty years. Commercial street is all that separates the working waterfront area that has some fine restaurants and tours of the bay from the narrow cobblestone streets that are home to many, many fine seafood and ethnic restaurants, cool bars, hip clubs, chic shops, antique stores and many specialty that are lined up in old warehouse and four story apartment buildings.
We were fortunate enough to get parking right in front of the restaurant we were looking for on Wharf Street. This happens to be a very neat narrow cobblestone street where we later found out we were illegally parked. Fortunately for us we weren't towed, summoned or even given a warning. It seems that we were either lucky or that those who do the policing are not out in force in the off season.
While in Portland we tried two restaurants that were in town. We read about both. The one on Wharf Street is Street and Co. I will recommend it as an eatery with a fine menu and excellent chef. If you like you can watch the kitchen at work right from the window on the street. Definitely take a walk on this small, almost alleyway, cobble stone street. There are many other places that looked terrific. I noticed two Mexican places nearby and saw a Japanese eatery up another street and we heard excellent things about a nearby Thia restaurant. Live music was coming from a nearby club and in another a band was setting up.
(Update Oct 2006) We have continued coming up to Portland and have tried many restaurants and breweries. I have listed some below. Excellent town for dining and hanging out! end update
The next day we got to see a bit more of Old Port and had lunch in a restaurant on the water. Before doing so my wife and I split up from our daughters so we all could explore. My wife did some shopping while I stopped by a local pub to have a pint of the local beers that are brewed within a few blocks of the place. Names like Sebago Brewing, Casco Bay Brewing, and Shipyard dotted the many tourist maps that are easily had at the information center on Commercial Street. We have since gone on tour at The Shipyard Brewery, it's a good one! It was right on the next corner where I went for my pint at Three Dollar Deweys. Pints were on special at $2.50. Gritty McDuffs is another fine brewpub to visit. I just finished a review of Ri Ra Irish Pub just before updating this review. It's a must visit! My wife and I also spent some time in a couple of other popular Portland places. Three Dollar Deweys is fine as a family restaurant during the day but at night the place gets quite lively. Another good dining place is Fore Street. Look for more restaurant reviews in the near future.
If you are in need of a 1960's fix for atmosphere you can try the Mediterranean/Vegetarian dishes in Local 188.
My daughters enjoyed shopping as did my wife. After the pub I made my way to a couple of used and new book stores. I picked up a couple of Christmas presents and then walked to JavaNet and an Internet cafe that had excellent coffee, great looking cakes and homemade items and Internet service at $2.00 for a half hour.
We all joined just before four o'clock so we could take advantage of the lunch menu at a floating restaurant by the name of DiMillo's. This seafood place, though a bit commercial in looks, offered an really fine lobster bisque that was loaded with lobster. This restaurant was once a tug boat that was stripped out and refurbished to look like a fine dining room, and it does. This is for a more "conservative" crowd.
More of Portland
We hopped in the car and parked on the street at a meter near LL Bean. It wasn't quite as well stocked as the one in Freeport that is about a twenty minute ride north of Portland. This part of town is now known as the The Arts District. Right on or very near Congress Street is a hub of museums and theatres. There are also many art galleries and antique shops. We saw them right next to and across the street from LL Bean. Once parked, it's easy to walk to all of these places. There are many parking lots in the area.
Just a few blocks away from this store is the Portland Art Museum. We went there and I was quite impressed with the works they had inside.
We saw one gallery with about 12 pieces of Winslow Homer. The Wyeths, MC and Andrew were also well represented. I didn't notice any work of the youngest of the Wyeths, Jamie. We saw their work while in Delaware. Wow! We even got to personally meet and talk to Andrew Wyeth while dining in a restaurant. That was especially exciting for my wife who is an artist herself and also teaches art. But I digress.
We saw Renior, Degas, John Singer Sargent, Frederic Church, no, not the artists but their works. There were other works by world acclaimed artists too. I was surprised at all the work on permanent display.
When we were there they had a special show of The Diplomatic Reception Rooms of the Department of State. This was three large rooms of furnishings that were displayed. It was an interesting show when reading the uses and meetings that were involved. I'm now hoping to receive a phone call for an invitation to see the White House all decked out for Christmas in early December. I'll definitely have another review then. Once again I digress.
I was quite impressed with the museum and its architecture. It was built as three very distinct yet attached structures over the last 100 years.
Very close by is the Children's Museum of Portland. We didn't do it but have read it's worth a look. We did pass by the Institute of Contemporary Art at the Maine College of Art. This was also on Congress Street. Though we never made it into this one, the front windows showing some of the art did not impress me at all. This looked second rate.
Much farther down on Congress Street is the Portland Observatory, a good one our visit before perhaps stopping in on a brewery.
(Update Oct 2006) We made our first visit to the Civic Center to see a show. It's right in town and it's a good venue for shows. end update
More Nearby
We were able to go to one of Maine's famous Lighthouses one morning. We went to the Portland Head Light that is just across a new bridge from the city of Portland. It's about fifteen minutes from downtown Portland. This happens to be a beautiful and very photogenic lighthouse that can be viewed from many different angles. There's even another lighthouse in the distance. The Light Head's grounds seamlessly abuts Fort William Park. It's a fine looking place. There's a cliff walk that takes about fifteen minutes to do. The views are fabulous. Don't forget your camera. Picnic tables and grills are throughout this seaside park that even has a small beach area.
Closing Thoughts
As stated, I was surprised by Portland and especially the Old Port area. I hope to spend more time there in the future if my daughter does go to the local school. I was also, as my daughters were, impressed with the friendly attitude of all the people who we met while in Portland. Ha, I was ready to shut off my car when at a toll booth talking to an attendant there.
Portland seems to be a good place to stop for a couple-a-few days. I don't know if, as a tourist, there is enough to keep you busy and well interested much longer than that. It certainly is a good place to stop, adventure in, eat, and stay overnight while on the way to Acadia National Park our favorite place in all this world.
After spending more time in Portland, I find it an amazing place to stay. My wife and I recently stayed at the Hilton on the old Port area. I suggest it as a well located and run establishment.
Places to visit
Portland Museum of Art
Portland Head Light
Portland Observatory
Shipyard Brewing Company
Portland Civic Center Do the town and see a show.
Places to stay
Hilton Garden Inn, Old Port
Off I-95 Portland
Howard Johnson's Hotel, Portland
Portland Travelodge
Super 8 Motel, Portland
Places to eat. Most are in the Old Port historic section of Portland
Flatbread good "natural" pizza.
Ri-Ra Good food and drink
Street and Co. A fine restaurant in the Old Port Section of Portland.
DiMillo's Floating Restaurant
Gilbert's Chowder House
Fore Street Highly rated by frommer's Guides
Three Dollar Dewey's Awesome brew selections.
Dry Dock Restaurant and Tavern
Local 188 A refuge of the 1960's
Shipyard Brewing Company
Other points of interest in the Sebago Lake/Windham Area.
Saint Joseph's College of Maine
Sebago Lake Maine Wildlife Park Near Sebago Lake and Saint Joseph's College of Maine
Seacoast Fun Parks/ Windham
Bob's Seafood Outside of Portland in Windham
More of Maine
Coastal Maine, One man's view
Bar Harbor, Maine
Acadia National Park
A Canadian side trip from Maine's Acadia National Park
Freeport's Desert of Maine
Boothbay Harbor
The Rocktide Inn Boothbay Harbor
MY favorite Map.
American Map Road Atlas: Large Scale - Large Type
Recommended:
Yes
Best Suited For: Families
Best Time to Travel Here: Sep - Nov
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