I recall Prescott Park in fall
Written: Oct 24 '00 (Updated Oct 24 '00)
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Product Rating:
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Pros: Perks of a big city, charm of a small one
Cons: Not always easy to find a parking space
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| babyfishmouth's Full Review: Portsmouth |
Review Topic: Overview
In the live free or die state, Portsmouth is clearly the eat, drink and be merry city - at least for those of us Gen-Xers.
I moved to New Hampshire this past summer, after giving up on the idea that twentysomethings lived anywhere but New York, Chicago, San Francisco or Gap ads (and who wants to hang out with those Village of the Damned refugees, even if they can dance up a storm?) But lo! When I first walked the brick walkways of the Port City, I saw gobs of young singletons. Could it get any better than this, I wondered.
Yes, it could and did. Portsmouth is not only home to a crowd of hip, happening folks who remember Sit n' spin, Romper Stompers and Charlie's Angels lunchboxes, it is also an excellent place for the young or young-at-heart to spend the day. Just take a look at all this little gem has to offer:
Restaurants
Whatever your budget or dietary pleasure, Portsmouth has a restaurant for you. I have not been to every bistro on the block, but I can recommend the Blue Mermaid without reservation. They make a mean pad thai and be sure to try their tumbleweeds - little fried onions smothered in a spicy batter. They serve up an impressive assortment of drinks, too, each topped with a lil' plastic mermaid. If it is nice out, try to get a table on their deck because the local restaurant review show, The Phantom Gourmet rates it among the best in outdoor dining in New England, and believe me, the phantom doesn't lie.
I also recommend the Portsmouth Brewery, where you can slake your thirst with a cold Old Brown Dog or Portsmouth Pale Ale, brewed by the Smuttynose Brewing Co. Their burgers are cooked to order and served with a smile, but it is their appetizers that I go for... Coconut fried shrimp, loaded nachos, mushrooms stuffed with crabmeat.....mmm... my stomach is growling at the thought of it. The dining room is clean and bright, but they do have kind of weird black and white photos on the wall of people making goofy faces.... I guess after you knock back a couple of the ol' Smuttynose drafts, it makes sense. If possible, try to sit under the skylight, and be sure to buy a cheesy t-shirt from their gift shop to take home and show your friends.
Another great place to soothe your stomach's primordial groanings is The Friendly Toast. You can get breakfast anytime at this cool little restaurant, where That Dog or Fiona Apple can oft be heard above the sizzle of the grill. You can get breakfast anytime here, and they serve a nice selection of omelettes, eggs any way you like 'em, pancakes or waffles. But if breakfast is not your thing, the sandwiches are piled high, too. I highly recommend the avocado burger, with a raspberry julius to wash it down. Whatever your choice of a meal, be sure to soak in the ambience of this kitschy little restaurant, which looks a bit like my mom's dream house of the fifties, sixties and seventies, all rolled into one cozy room of retro kitchen tables and big ceramic ashtrays.
If you are in the mood for something lighter, stop by one of the many coffee shops that line the streets. When Bill Bradley was recently in town to campaign for Al Gore, he sang the praises of the coffee and pastry at Cafe Brioche, a charming little cafe with outdoor tables and the rich aroma of French roast wafting out onto the streets. It is definitely in the heart of things and a great place to people watch. I however, prefer the coffee at Breaking New Grounds (and don't forget to grab a seven-layer bar to munch), which also serves yummy caramel apple cider in the fall. But the coolest place for your cuppa joe is easily Cafe Kilim, a little Turkish-type joint with big poofy pillows, strong coffee and hot chocolate made from Hershey's chocolate. It's all about the ambience, folks.
Just want a cold brew and some good music? Try the Press Room, a cozy bar with Irish and English beer on tap and a "menu" of music that ranges from Irish traditional to jazz.
Other eateries of note include the Muddy River Smokehouse (a bit touristy, but the smell of barbecue may draw you in against your will), the Dunfey's Aboard the John Wanamaker, which is a unique restaurant on a ship that floats on the Piscataqua River, and Dolphin Stryker.
Things to do
Portsmouth is not as big as Boston or even Portland, Maine, but don't think you'll run out of things to do. The history buff will enjoy Strawbery Banke (and yes, that's how they spell it), a collection of restored houses with in-character hosts. Take a walk along the Black Heritage Trail for look into the African-American influence in New England. Or check out what's going on in nearby Prescott Park, which features music concerts and chili festivals, among other events, all summer long.
Feeling crafty? Spend a few hours in the Clayground, a paint-your-own pottery shop right in downtown. They'll ship your finished pieces to you if you cannot stick around while they fire your work in the kiln.
Like shopping? The streets are lined with unique little shops, very few of which are huge national chains. Try Serendipity for clothes, Bull Moose Music for Cd's and tapes, the Blue Frog for candy, Stonewall Kitchen for jams and jellies, Shoofly Pie for children's books, Macro Polo for anything kitschy and silly (such as hula lamps or chairs shaped like giant hands)... There's so much to explore (and I haven't even told you about the two great used bookstores I haunt or the all-mystery bookstore or the store devoted to pets and their owners).
The more cultured among you might prefer to catch a show at the Seacoast Repertory Theatre (One Flew Over the Cuckoo's Nest is coming soon, so book your hotel now) or watch an independent film at the Music Hall, which now also brings the Telluride by the Sea film festival to the city each summer.
The Portsmouth Naval Shipyard is nearby, and you can take a little tour through the USS Albacore, a submarine. Also nearby is Fort Constitution, which has a lovely view of Whaleback Lighthouse.
Families will love the Portsmouth Children's museum, a hands-on, please touch museum dedicated to education.
And if you don't find all you could ask for and more in Portsmouth itself, you are but a quick drive to the outlet shops of Kittery, Maine, about half an our from the picturesque wonder of Nubble Light, possibly the most-photographed lighthouse in the world, or just hang out on any of new Hampshire's beaches -- North Hampton, Hampton or Rye. Whale watching is popular over the summer, and there are also tours of the Isle of Shoals in the summer and foliage cruises in the fall.
If you're really starved for something to do, drive up 1A and see the coast of Maine. Stop in Ogunquit or spy on the Bush estate in Kennebunkport (believe me, you'll know it when you see it).
I have been to Portsmouth and back a number of times this fall, and every time I am there I discover something new and wonderful about the city. Parking is a bit of a pain, but if you're lucky, you'll find a good spot by the whale wall (a landmark mural) or the parking garage. Watch out for pedestrians in the crosswalks, too... I swear they don't even look.
And if you're in Portsmouth for just a short time, go ahead and take one of the cheesy horse-and-carriage rides through the city. Why not?
Oh, I am sure there's some little detail I have omitted, but heck! I've gotta leave something for you to find out for yourself!!!
Recommended:
Yes
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Epinions.com ID:
babyfishmouth
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Member: Jen
Reviews written: 31
Trusted by: 12 members
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