Tranquil Taos - and the Tequila Rose Inn
Written: Aug 09 '01 (Updated Aug 10 '01)
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Product Rating:
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Pros: Natural beauty surrounds you ...
Cons: The main thoroughfare is experiencing some traffic congestion ...
The Bottom Line: A tranquil town little changed from its past - thank goodness...
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| Bonies7's Full Review: Taos |
So, what exactly do you look for in a mini-vacation?
If you are like many, you'd probably really appreciate a respite from the harried world we find ourselves in these days. A tranquil place in the sun that is still naturally beautiful, and that has not been overrun with tourists and commercialism.
Santa Fe had that reputation for years, but unfortunately its success has led to overcrowding and a feeling that the world has "discovered" Santa Fe.
But, luckily, Taos, New Mexico still retains the charm and small town feel that so many of us still search for in a getaway destination. A town of 6,000 permanent residents surrounded by natural beauty that takes your breath away, and a sensation when you arrive that - like the terrifically blue sky which surrounds you in Taos - helps create an overwhelming sense of serenity.
Taos is a high country town in New Mexico, situated at an altitude of almost 7,200 feet. It is an hour and a half drive from Santa Fe almost directly north, and is home of the most famous Indian Pueblo in the United States. The Tiwa speaking people still inhabit their ancestral home about four miles outside of Taos, and their Pueblo still stands four stories erect and accesible to visitors with a desire to step back in time.
If you have but one day in Taos, get up early and head to the Pueblo. Ask your guide to point out the face in Taos mountain that overlooks the settlement - a natural occurrence that is remarkably human looking, and one that may startle you once your eyes can focus on the phenomenon. It is easy to understand why these Native Americans have always held a spiritual bond with the mountains, and how their beliefs evolved over a thousand years. And remember, when Coronado's Spanish Expedition encountered this Pueblo in 1540, they found a thriving culture that rivalled many European cities.
Allow yourself at least three hours to explore the Pueblo - and allow yourself a stop at the riverside that flows through the village. Bend down and touch the ice cold water that flows from the sacred Blue Lake, and imagine what a travel weary group of Spanish explorers must have thought almost five hundred years ago when they first encountered the Tiwa tribe.
I think you'll find yourself moved as you imagine their amazement at the structure, and you'll possibly have that fleeting sense that that moment in time was a ephiphany for both the white man - and the red man.
As you traverse back to Taos Plaza, you'll pass a sign that points northward towards the town of Arroyo Hondo - about ten miles up Highway 64 and Highway 522. Change into a pair of swim trunks and a tee shirt, and head up that way. When you come to the town, take one of the two roads headed west, and you'll meander on a road that will take you to a gravel road. Follow the road another two miles or so, and you'll come across a metal bridge across the most shallow point on the Rio Grande River. Cross the bridge, turn left on the dirt road and drive up about 200 yards. Park your car, and then follow a well worn trail down the side of the mountain about a half mile to three natural hot springs that bubble up from the earth's depth.
These hot springs are known primarily to the "locals", and their soothing heat will easily draw the stress right out of your body. And as you sit there and soak, you can gaze up at the magnificent gorge that towers above you. In fact, we found this moment to be as tranquil as any we've experienced in many years, and it is something that every weary traveler needs to remind themselves - that nature is the best sedative of all.
If you can pull yourself out of the springs - and it is very hard to leave such surroundings - then you'll probably need a place to stay. There are over 2000 hotel and motel rooms in Taos for every conceivable budget. The recently opened Fechin Inn downtown is both luxurious, and reasonably priced - with rooms running $109 to $139 in the summer.
But our recommendation would be The Tequila Rose Inn. This 160 year old adobe structure was purchased by Jim and Sherry Campbell four years ago, and completely renovated and redecorated with a magical decorator's touch. It serves as both their home, and as a very quaint Inn with but two "casitas" for guests. The casitas are what we might call suites, with sitting areas, fireplaces, and a stunning courtyard that will make you seriously consider staying "home" for most of the day. If you can't make it to Taos anytime soon to experience this treasure first hand, then you can at least have a vicarious experience at www.tequilaroseinn.com.
Sherry is a gifted artist whose work involves several mediums. We mentioned to her that my wife loved horses, and the next day she had created a coffee mug with etched running horses as a wonderful gift. Something tells me that doesn't happen at most Hilton properties very often. And husband Jim is a throwback to the ideal of a strong, Western cowboy. Silver belt buckle and a cowboy hat were always in place, and Jim told us about many out of the way spots - including the hot springs - that only a handful of outsiders ever get to experience.
The cost? Surprisingly competitive with the local hotels. Around $100 a night to sleep in a casita that is more home than hotel, and one of those places that you'll want to share with every friend you have. It didn't surprise us that the Tequila Rose Inn does no advertising, but simply prospers on satisfied referrals. Their number is (505) 751-9859.
The food in Taos is equally impressive, and after you've wandered the Plaza and bought some Indian art or jewelry, head south of town about eight miles. The Stakeout restaurant (505-758-2042) sits atop a hill that overlooks the valley and the mountains, and is a terrific place to eat, drink and watch the sun set over the countryside. Try the Chateaubriand for two - served tableside for under $60 and one of those meals that will linger on your palate, and within your memory banks - for the rest of your life.
Can you tell that our Taos experience was special? Can you tell that we liked the fact that it has yet to be overrun? Can you tell that we're going back - for the beauty; for the weather; for the magical feeling that Taos creates with its culture and its people?
Let's hope you can join us there in the future.
And remember to bring a flashlight so we can together all watch the dazzling sun set over the Rio Grande gorge - as we smile and simmer in those remarkable hidden hot springs.
Recommended:
Yes
Best Suited For: Couples
Best Time to Travel Here: Anytime
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Epinions.com ID:
Bonies7
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Member: Jeff Clow
Location: The Lone Star State
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