Hudson Valley: A wonderful ride any time of year!!
Written: Sep 16 '02 (Updated Sep 06 '07)
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Pros: Beautiful scenery, historic homes, antiques, and farm stands.
Cons: Traffic jambed ride home back to New York and Long Island Sunday nights
The Bottom Line: any time of year this is a nice relaxing area to visit with beautiful views and interesting places to visit.
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| popsrocks's Full Review: The Hudson Valley |
I am writing this at the time of year the colours of the trees start to turn. The Hudson Valley is the perfect place to see this magnificent show!!
I have been going up to this area from my Long Island home ever since I was able to drive. My first trips were camping. As my family grew we started going up to see so much more.
WHERE IS THIS?
The Hudson Valley consists of over one hundred miles of Hudson river front starting just north of New York City and making it's way up just south of the Albany area. For the most part it is nestled between the Catskill Mountains to the west and the Bershires to the East. It is divided into lower, middle, and upper. The middle section is considered by some as the heart of Hudson Valley this is where Rhinebeck and Hyde Park are.
This review is about the Hudson valley area on the east side of the Hudson River. From the Southern points of Hyde Park going north to the city of Hudson. This is mostly Dutchess and Columbia Counties which takes in middle and upper Hudson Valley's east side. The actual area is debated among some as to what the Hudson Valley boundaries are.
THE OTHER SIDE
I know this area well, have visited it often, and continue to visit it. The other side of the Hudson and all the area south of what I am going to talk about has it's treasures too. More mansions, West Point, Woodstock, and Mohonk Mountain House, to name a few. Do be sure to spend a day at the NY Renaissance Faire in Tuxedo NY, it is a wonderful family day also on the western side of the Hudson. I hope to one day review what is there, and there is so much! Yes, so much I can't put everything into this one overview.
This is an area of rolling hills, farms, horses, vineyards, mansions, magnificent views of the Hudson, antique shops, and historic sites.
FOUR NATIONAL HISTORIC SITES
I have written about a few National Parks and Historic sites in other reviews. Well right here within a few miles of each other are three National Historic Sites of the National Park System.
The first of these three, just north of Poughkeepsie off Rt9 in the town of Hyde Park, is The FDR Home and Library. They named the home "Springwood". In it you will find original furnishings and displays of Franklin's many hobby's including stamp collecting and model ship building. This was the home of our only four term president, his full life. He and his wife Eleanor are buried here in the Rose garden.
Now when Franklin was in political office and again after he became president the home was a very busy place. He had many visitors from the states and around the world. His wife Eleanor longed for a place she could call home and find some quiet time for herself. Franklin built just a place for her just a few miles away from the big house and the river. The name of this comparatively modest home is Val-Kil. Eleanor lived there and entertained. It seems that the president took some of his guests there also. So much for your quiet place Eleanor
A little further north of the FDR home, and also off Rt9 in Hyde Park, is the Vanderbilt home. They were neighbors living just a few miles from each other. This home was built in the "Gilded Era" when many of the well to do designed homes with much grandeur. It is quite magnificent inside and out.
There are other homes like this in the area and are much akin to the mansions of Newport, Rhode Island built at the same time. This is an awesome home with formal gardens, trails and great views. The home has antiques from all over Europe including Florence, Rome, Venice, Paris, London and more. Besides taking a tour of the main house you can see the coach house that was converted for cars at the turn of last century and the two main gate houses.
The Vanderbilt along with the FDR Home and Val Kil are open seven days a week from nine till five. There are some extended hours in the summer. There is a charge for tours in these three places. You can get a discount if you decide to see all three and purchase the multi ticket first.
These three historic sites are part of the National Parks system, therefore you can get your "Passport" canceled here. Yes, you can get three cancellations in one day! If you would like to learn more about the "Passport" system of "collecting" parks go to the link at the end of this piece.
One thing I really enjoy about all of these places is that you can really get very involved in the tours and the history or you can just walk the grounds in a relaxed way and get the feel of what life must have been like in those days. The landscapes are just beautiful. This area is known as the "American Rhine" because of it's great beauty.
Up further in Kinderhook, about an hour away is a fourth National Historic site. That is the home of Martin Van Buren. It consists of a tour of his home and the grounds. A short drive into the village of Kinderhook takes you to his birthplace, it's only a marker, and the cemetary where he is buried.
A GREAT PLACE TO STAY, IT'S A MANSION!!
Not all that far from the three historic sites in the Hyde Park area are other nearby mansions that can be toured and a wonderful place you can stay. It's calledBelvedere Mansion. The owners Patricia and Nick will be happy to show you around the many rooms they offer. There are rooms in the Mansion, the Carriage House, in the Lodge, and other surprises. The place is run like a country inn. It's wonderful. They also have fine French Dining. They are a four star Zagat rated establishment.
OTHER GREAT PLACE TO DINE
Also in the Hyde Park is the Culinary Institute of America. You can enjoy an "experimental dinner" done by some of the best chefs of the world and those studying the art. This may be one of the best meals you have ever seen and eaten!! You do need reservations well in advance.
Going north again you enter the town of Rhinebeck with its many antique shops. It is a quaint town that boasts the "oldest Inn in the US" The Beekman Inn. The Inn has hosted presidents through the years including Franklin Roosevelt and much more recently Bill Clinton. You can book a room here yourself. This is one place I never made it to, but it really looks great. This is a place you can stay or have a wonderful American dinner.
MORE TO DO
Nearby you will find the Old Rhinebeck Aerodrome. You can watch some great air shows that are regularly scheduled. It's exciting seeing the bi-plane barn stormers doing their daredevil antics.
You can take a tour of the Wilderstein Preservation. This is another nearby place to visit. It has a huge and lovely Queen Anne Mansion and wonderful views of the river on over 40 acres of land. It has a very cool looking five story circular tower with a commanding view of the area. The house also has some beautiful stained glass windows. Don't miss a tour of Mills Mansion. My wife and I had a wonderful tour of the place. What I really liked was that some of the pieces have not been restored. It reminded me of the the scene in the movie Titanic where you see a transformation of the old water soaked and ravaged staircase to the new and beautiful.
Rhinebeck is home to the Dutchess County Fair every summer. I have gone with my kids a three or four times. It is a great mix of animals, food, rides, and shows. We arrive early and stay late. It is a full day of fun for all of us. We even purchased a pet rabbit there.
MORE MANSIONS
Going north again you come to Montgomery Place another river front property with a mansion, gardens, greenhouse, and nature trails. It was built by the widow of General Montgomery who lead the American troops in the war against the British. It was said to be one of the most beautiful of all the homes of the day. A noted landscaper of the 1800s said "this place is nowhere surpassed in America in location, natural beauty, or landscape garden charm.
Here, as in many of the sites I have mentioned, the property has areas that are set aside to picnic. I was here in the spring. I understand they have their own orchards that you can pick from in season. Check with them for details.
This is followed by the Clermont, another fantastic mansion with a great view. Clermont means "Clear Mountain" in French. You do get a clear view of the Catskill mountains to the west from this property. Be sure to hear about the connection between this mansion and Fulton's steamboat the "Clermont". The Livingston Family lived in the mansion for seven generations. Each generation added their own charm and decor to this land. There was actually another "Clermont" on the property. It was built after the first one. It was larger and supposedly even more beautiful. Sadly it burned down in the early nineteen hundreds. The outline of it's foundation can still be seen. It is all so interesting to learn history and be in the midst of it at the same time.
This whole area is dotted with even more mansions and places of interest. Except for the three national park run sites you will find many of the other site are open only Wednesday through Sunday. It is important to know where and when you are going. They all have a nominal fee to enter.
AMERICAN ARTISTS
The Hudson River Valley was the inspiration for the canvases of the American Hudson Valley School of artists ,Thomas Cole, Charles Herbert Moore, and Frederick Church. They are considered by some as America's first and finest landscape artists.
Frederick Church had a place up north from Rhinebeck, about a half hour drive on the very scenic Taconic State Parkway or RT 9. Off rt 82 and Rt 9 you can find his famed home Olana. It is a Moorish style structure with furnishings from his many visits to the middle east. You also see how he designed and used interior windows to bring light into his home. My wife who is an art educator and studied him learned even more about him.
In this update of May 9 2005 I am adding that I just found out about the Thomas Cole House that is designated a National Historic site. This is on Route 23 just across the Rip Van Winkle Bridge. Make a left and the big yellow house is right there. If you go to Olana you must stop here. After all it is Cole who had Church as a student for a few years. The house is not like the grand Olana but the history is there.
The Hudson Valley and the Catskills were backdrops to many of the paintings that can now be seen throughout the USA in its top museums.
HISTORIC HUDSON
Just minutes away from this interesting home and majestic views of the Hudson River and the Catskill Mountains is the historic city of Hudson. Parts of it are a bit depressed but they have been doing some major changes in the area for the best. As of August 2004 I just visited there again. The city is going through a reniasance. Warren Street and the Waterfront areas are definitely worth visiting. Don't miss the American Museum of Fire Fighting featuring equipment well over one hundred years old. It's easy to find once you are in Hudson. Just follow the blue signs that say "Fire Fighting Museum". My cousin who lives just fifteen minutes away turned me on to the museum. He is a volunteer in a nearby fire department. For years they would fix dinner for firefighters from Long Island going up to visit the museum. The Long Islanders would travel up by bus, see the museum, check out a farmstand or two, go to the local firehouse for some dinner, and then head back down to Long Island.
People come here from all over the country. It is the second largest such museum in the country. One of the very cool things they have is an engine, as they were called, built and put in commission in the early 1700's. It was the first such engine, a water pumper, that was ever used in NYC. That was about 1730. It was purchased from England. It was designed to be pumped either by hand or foot. This was the beginning of the end of the bucket brigade era. This museum has over eighty such engines and all sorts of historic fire tools. It is so interesting seeing how the tools and trucks of fighting fires have evolved over the years. The kids can get their picture taken on the firetruck just outside the museum. Everybody leaves this place amazed! And it's FREE!!
You know, this overview isn't fair to the Hudson Valley area. There is just so much to see and to do. I can't possible do justice to all the places I have mentioned and have failed to mention. But I shall go on.
APPLE PICKING
The area of Rt 82 between Hudson and the Taconic Parkway has some fine farm stands and apple orchards. Our favorite is Phillip's Orchards just a little bit north. It's a lot of fun climbing the ladders to pick you own apples and pears. Drops are a real bargain. Ask about them. This is pumpkin time coming up also.
A WONDERFUL PARK WITH CAMPING
Right off Rt82 and the Taconic Parkway you will find Lake Taghanic State Park. That is closer to the Indian spelling. It a nice relaxing stop in the fall and a great destination in the summer. It has two beaches, a great campground, row boats, paddle boats, fishing, cabins and the best in cottages right on the lake. Be sure you take the kids to find the tower in the campground area. They will love the climb and fun diversion. During the winter if it is cold enough ice fishers are here.
At the Rt 82 exit off the Taconic Parkway look for a small diner. It has good food and there's a pizza place just across the road that make excellent pies. Realize these are just small little places . No strip malls or anything remotely like one. There is also a small motel right there. Sorry, I don't remember the name for all the years I have passed it and even stayed in it.
More To See
If you can ride the Taconic State Parkway do it. It is a great scenic road that has won national awards for it's beauty. Skip it in the winter if the roads have snow or ice. It is winding and hilly. But do come back.
Very recently in late September 03 my wife and I did a weekend in the lower Hudson Valley. We went to Kykuit, The John D Rockefeller Estate and Washington Irvings Home They are both within a few miles of the Tappen Zee bridge. We went on both tours. They were excellent! We stayed at a nearby Hilton Hotel not quite so excellent.
The Hudson Vally was listed in the book
Wonderful Weekends from New York City The Hudson Valley is listed in this book that has places to stay, dine and things to do.
Olana the magnificent home of Hudson River School Artist Frederic Church
Cedar Grove, The Home of Hudson School Artist Thomas Cole
Hudson River School Art Trail A Pleasure For Art and Nature Lovers
Hudson NY
American Museum of Firefighters
Martin Van Buren National Monument Fifteen minutes from the Firefighters Museum
Home or Franklin D Roosevelt National Historic Site
Eleanor Roosevelt National Historic Site
Kykuit, the Rockefeller Estate
Lake Taconic State Park
NY Renaissance Faire
The Belvedere Mansion, a place to stay
Howe Caverns A bit north-west of the Hudson Valley
Mohonk Mountain House
The Tarrytown Hilton Hotel
The Catskills
New York State
Holiday Inn Orangeburg-Rockland/Bergen Co
Best Western Hotel, Albany Area
Mornings on Horseback; A story about Theodore Roosevelt
MY favorite Map.
2005 American Map Road Atlas: Large Scale - Large Type
The Hudson Valley is one of Pops Top Ten Getaway Places From NYC for Couples
Hudson Valley
Recommended:
Yes
Best Suited For: Families
Best Time to Travel Here: Anytime
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