It May Be in a Hotel But It Is NOT a Hotel Restaurant
Written: Nov 29 '00
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Product Rating:
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Pros: In general, truly delicious food in a family-friendly environment.
Cons: Our desserts were quite disappointing. Hopefully the regular dessert menu provides better choices.
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| Epicure's Full Review: Charleston |
I was adamant. I was not going to have a late dinner on Thanksgiving. I knew I would probably stuff myself silly, and I did not want to go to bed on a full stomach. I've never understood how some people actually enjoy taking a nap after a large meal. Me, I need to take a good, long walk. So that's how we ended up having dinner at the Charleston Grill at 4:30 p.m. last Thursday (the only time they had available on the early side). To our surprise, the restaurant was completely packed. Ah, so I am not alone in my philosophy.
Located adjacent to the lobby of the Charleston Place Hotel, the Charleston Grill is probably the most upscale, formal restaurant in the hotel. But it is by no means a "hotel restaurant." Hotel restaurants are predictable, stodgy and bland - a consolation prize for those who either don't have the time or the adventurous spirit to venture beyond the confines of their hotel in an unfamiliar city. Mind you, I am aware that in some cities, hotels have become the new hot spot for serious dining (in NYC, for example, you have Lespinasse at the St Regis, Jean Georges at the Trump International Hotel and Le Cirque 2000 at the New York Palace Hotel), but in general, a hotel is the last place where you would expect to find cutting-edge cuisine. Enter the Charleston Grill.
The decor reminded me of a gentlemen's club. A lot of mahogany furniture and deep green marble floors. Old black and white photographs decorated the walls. Lighting was provided by miniature covered lamps. A single rose in the small bud vase supplied a touch of femininity to each table. Large windows faced the stately courtyard of the Charleston Place Hotel. A very classic-looking restaurant that one might term as stuffy. Yet, there they were - happy, multi-generational tables brimming with merriment and laughter. If this is a stuffy restaurant, someone evidently forgot to tell the guests.
We were given a cozy, curved banquette, the kind which allowed us to sit side by side. I love that ‘cause it makes hand-holding in between courses such a breeze. Yes, we are definitely romantics. Our server came by to take our drink orders. I chose the house cocktail, the "California Royal," which reminded me of a Kir Royale. It was a nice blend of Jopson Blanc de Blanc with Bonny Doon Cassis, a blackberry liqueur. My husband ordered a glass of Merlot from the Au Bon Climat vineyard in the Santa Barbara region, which had a bit too much of that oak taste for me.
In honor of Thanksgiving, there was a special prix fixe menu for $55.00 per person. It included a choice of appetizer, main course and dessert. There was about a half dozen appetizers and a half dozen main courses from which to select. I was disappointed that the dessert selection was not equally extensive - only two choices. I had a sinking suspicion that dessert, my favorite part of a meal, was going to be the weak link in our Thanksgiving dinner. I was unfortunately right.
The appetizers were probably the best part of the meal. We ordered the Sauteed McClellanville Crab Cakes with Diced Creek Shrimp in an Opal Basil and Teardrop Tomato Butter, and the Roasted Diver Scallop and Snow Pea Tart in Homemade Curry Butter. Both were absolutely fabulous! Those of you who have read my past restaurant reviews know I have a soft spot for crab cakes. Charleston Grill is supposedly famous for its crab cakes, so how could I not try it? What can I say except that the restaurant certainly deserves its reputation for producing the best crab cakes in town. Two fluffy mounds of crab meat surrounded by golden and rose colored heirloom tomatoes. I scrapped the plate clean. As scrumptious as the crab cakes were, it was in the scallop and snow pea tart that the chef really allowed his creativity to shine through. No, I guess I shouldn't say that because even though crab cakes is one of the most common dishes at a Charleston restaurant, the use of pear tomatoes and basil definitely added a different twist to a traditional favorite. But back to the tart....it was an inspired creation! The smooth, tender layers of scallops glazed with the tantalizing curry butter. I don't think "curry butter" accurately describes the sauce though. When I think of curry, I typically picture something spicy. The curry butter here was a delightful combination of the sweet and the salty - sweet caramelized onions and salty bacon bits combined in a buttery sauce. Absolutely delicious, but no hint of curry. I must mention that the tart itself was also first-rate. It was delicate and crunchy, more like a pastry shell rather than a pie crust. The chef could have been more generous with the snow peas, but that was a small thing in light of the wonders that he had already performed. Other dishes which sounded appealing included the Warm Salad of Duck Confit and Granny Smith Apples in Wildflower Honey and Huckleberry Vinaigrette, and Creek Shrimp and Lobster Bisque.
All of the main course selections were very hearty, traditional dishes. They lacked the whimsy of the appetizers, but they were good, honest, all-American fare with a Southern touch. In honor of Thanksgiving, I ordered the Roasted Turkey Breast and Braised Leg in White Wine served in its own Natural Juices, with a Sweet Potato Puree, Cornbread Dressing and Whipped Potatoes. My husband selected the Roasted Black Angus Beef Tenderloin with Whipped Potatoes and Collard Greens with Bacon in a Roasted Shallot and Chive Sauce. I just have to tell you now that the best part of my dish was not even printed on the menu. The best part of my dish was the Homemade Cranberry Sauce that came in a silver serving pitcher. It was the most delectable cranberry sauce that I have ever had - the cranberries were incredibly sweet and lush! I dunked every piece of turkey in that cranberry sauce at least twice and then I used my spoon to scrap the bottom of the pitcher. It was that good. The turkey wasn't bad either. The meat was cooked to perfection - flavorful and not the least bit dry. The whipped potatoes were creamy and buttery. I actually prefer chunkier mashed potatoes the same way I like pulp in my orange juice, but that's just me.
Now while I was going on and on about the divine Cranberry Sauce, my husband was raving about the Collard Greens....yes, you heard me, the Collard Greens - one of my least favorite vegetables because of its usual bitterness. Being the open-minded person that I am, I tried the Collard Greens. Amazingly enough, they weren't bitter at all. I wouldn't say that I loved them, but they were certainly edible - leafy and almost savory with the bacon bits mixed in. According to my husband, the chef must be a genius to be able to make Collard Greens taste that good. The beef tenderloin was cooked medium rare, and it was tender, juicy and lean. I liked how it was slightly charred around the edges, so that it produced an appealing smoky aroma. The shallot and chive sauce complemented the beef perfectly.
For dessert, we had the choice of either Pumpkin Chocolate Mousse Cake with Pinot Noir Reduction and Fresh Berries or Spice Cake with Eggnog Sabayon and Vanilla Bean Ice Cream. We usually like to order different desserts, so we can sample more, but in this case the Pumpkin Chocolate Mousse Cake did not appeal to either of us. I personally believe that there is a limited number of fruits which can be combined or served with chocolate. Pumpkin has never struck me as being one of them. Our server reinforced our Spice Cake decision, but as it turned out the Spice Cake was a rather dull dessert. It reminded me of a cold spice muffin. There was a leaden quality to it, which made me want to throw it rather than eat it. That may be a little harsh. It wasn't horrible. It just did not maintain the same standards set by the rest of the meal. Neither of us finished our spice cake, but at least I finished the vanilla bean ice cream. I always wonder which is the greater evil - wasting food or wasting one's appetite.
Even though the restaurant was full, we never felt rushed by our server. At times, she seemed a bit frazzled, but that's understandable considering the crowds. She left us with a parting gift of a small tray of chocolates. We were stuffed. The turkey and the beef tenderloin were both quite substantial. Still, it was Thanksgiving, so we decided to indulge once again. The nutty praline-filled truffle was delicious.
Address: 224 King Street, Charleston, South Carolina (in the Charleston Place Hotel)
Telephone Number: 843-577-4522
Reservations: Two weeks in advance recommended.
Attire: Smart Casual
Kid Friendly: Absolutely. We saw many parties with well-behaved children.
Recommended:
Yes
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Epinions.com ID:
Epicure
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 - Top 500 |
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Location: New York, NY
Reviews written: 88
Trusted by: 100 members
About Me:
I generally avoid temptation....unless I can't resist it.
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