Amidst the beauty, you'll find more tourist attractions than you can possibly visit. Some are outstanding. Some are OK, and some are truly awful. Choose them carefully. We also had two great dining experiences, in spite of the fact that I really didn't have very high expectations of the Black Hills dining scene.

Some thoughts about Black Hills lodging... There are many good hotels and campgrounds in Keystone, Hill City, Custer and scattered throughout the Black Hills. But if you want to save some green, stay in Rapid City and drive the 30 minutes to the Black Hills. You'll pay about half the price in Rapid City than you will for comparable lodging in the Black Hills. We paid $69 a night for our clean, comfortable Motel 6 room... and they had a pool!

One caveat when planning your Black Hills getaway: The Sturgis Bike Rally is held in early August each year in the small town of Sturgis, on the northern end of the Black Hills. I have heard estimates of 500,000 (that's half a million) people attend this popular festival, snatching up hotel rooms and campgrounds within a 100-mile radius and adding to the already-hefty crowds. For the sake of perspective, the population of the entire state of South Dakota is about 750,000! So unless you plan on attending the rally, you may want to avoid the Black Hills altogether while it is underway... maybe even a few days before and after the rally. The 2004 Sturgis Bike Rally will be held From August 9 - 15, 2004.

One of my personal passions while traveling is taking a solo sightseeing side trip early in the morning to watch the sun rise. (Sometimes I'll take one or both of the girls if they want to get up at 4:30 AM). It cleanses the soul and provides the chance to see wonderful places without the crowds. The Black Hills provided such an experience. If you can get your bones out of bed early, this is easily the best way to enjoy the area's natural attractions.

Reptile Gardens - Rapid City, SD
6 miles south of Rapid City on US 16 (Mt. Rushmore Road)

Reptile Gardens is another one of the many attractions that you'll see advertised on the South Dakota highway signs. Claiming the world's largest reptile collection, Reptile Gardens is a offers both scheduled programs and self-guided attractions. There are numerous animal shows scheduled throughout the day... the Alligator Show, the Birds Of Prey Show, the Snake Show, the Parrot Show and the Trained Animal Show. During the peak season, it is very crowded... VERY crowded. We arrived shortly after they opened (8 AM), and the first show, the alligator show was standing room only for those who weren't waiting in the front of the line. We found a seat for Mom at the second show and the girls and I moved on to see some of the unguided exhibits.
The centerpiece of Reptile Gardens (and my favorite part) is its 2-tiered Sky Dome, an indoor walk-through jungle teeming with birds, lizards and snakes as well as tropical plants and beautiful orchids and other flowers. The upper level of the Sky Dome features a large portion of their snake, reptile and amphibian collection... and it is a large and impressive collection, with many dangerous, unusual and weird scaly creatures, amphibians and insects. They have tic-tac-toe and basketball-playing chickens, with which PETA has taken issue. Also of note are their herd of friendly giant tortoises which visitors may touch. They also have a prairie dog colony.
I've tried to visualize Reptile Gardens without the huge crowds, and unquestionably it would have been much more enjoyable. The one show we watched was entertaining... we saw a guy "wrestling" an alligator, which he chose from a herd of about a hundred alligators, crocs, and caimans (they don't call it "wrestling" anymore). The other exhibits were clean and well-presented. There are just too many people.
Allow a minimum of 2 hours, but visitors could easily spend most of the day to see all of the shows and exhibits. Parking seems to be adequate, but the crowds are way too big for such a small park. Admission is $10.00 for adults, $9.25 for seniors over 62 and $6.00 for kids 6-12. (605) 342-5873
We visited Wednesday morning in July, 2003
Weather: Sunny, but became hot very quickly
Ease of Accessibility: B
Parking: B
Cost: C
Quality: B
Crowds: D-
Kid-Friendliness: B+
Handicap Accessibility: C-
Overall Experience: C-

Mt. Rushmore - Keystone, SD
2 miles SW of Keystone via US 16A and SR 244. Follow signs.
The awe-inspiring Mt. Rushmore is of course, the premier Black Hills attraction, and deservedly so. The faces of Presidents Washington, Jefferson, Theodore Roosevelt and Lincoln are 60 feet high and are amazing to see at close range. Visitors who are able to make a short, but brisk hilly hike can look right up George Washington's nostrils. Your visit to Mt. Rushmore will be enhanced if you are familiar with the story of Rushmore sculptor Gutzon Borglum. You can learn about Borglum at the Sculptor's Studio at Mt. Rushmore and the Borglum Historical Center in Keystone. Parking is $8 at the visitors center, however limited free parking is available at the Sculptor's Studio and the view is just as spectacular. The main visitor's center is a short hike up the hill from the studio. The best view of the sculpture is from the Grand View Terrace at the visitor's center. Presidential Trail offers the closest view, just below the base of the sculpture. Mt. Rushmore was chosen as the site of the sculpture not only because of it's height, but for it's visibility and lighting. From sunrise to sunset, the sculpture's shadows enhance its beauty.
While short, the Presidential Trail is rugged... you'll get your exercise. We visited during the first summer after September 11, so I was braced for a huge crowd during our noontime visit to this patriotic landmark. The crowd was sizable, but (to my surprise) not overbearing and did not diminish our enjoyment. During my early morning solo excursion, there was nobody else at the sculptor's studio at 6 AM.
You may spend as much time as you like at Mt. Rushmore. Allow ½ hour for the sculptor's studio presentation and ½ hour to walk the Presidential Trail.
We visited Wednesday around noon and Thursday at 6AM in July, 2003
Weather: Sunny, but became hot very quickly
Ease of Accessibility: C
Parking: C
Cost: C
Quality: A
Crowds: C-
Kid-Friendliness: B+
Handicap Accessibility: C-
Overall Experience: A-

Scenic Drives - Black Hills, SD
The scenery in the Black Hills is hard to beat and is best experienced as a whole by driving the area's scenic highways, Needles Highway (SR 87) and Iron Mountain Road (US 16A). Both roads pass through Custer State Park ($12 fee per vehicle. Park pass good for 1 week.). The 14-mile Needles Highway passes through the unusual and spectacular granite spires for which the road is named. It also passes by the incredibly scenic Sylvan Lake, a small mountain lake bordered by enormous granite formations. It passes through two narrow tunnels which can be difficult for motor homes or vehicles pulling large trailers. Iron Mountain Road features spectacular mountain scenery, hairpin curves, a spiral bridge and two narrow tunnels which perfectly frame Mt. Rushmore. Both roads contain numerous overlooks and pulloffs where visitors can stop and enjoy the scenery.

You are virtually guaranteed to see abundant wildlife while traveling these roads, particularly in the early morning. We encountered dozens of deer, some elk and turkeys. Our biggest treat came when we pulled over along US 16A to allow a herd of bison (a.k.a. buffalo) to pass. There were about 200 beasts in the herd, coming within inches of our vehicle as they thundered by. Also we encountered a group of 6 wild donkeys... descendants of the donkeys used by miners and turned loose when the mines were abandoned. We pulled over and the friendly animals came right up to our vehicle expecting a treat. We obliged with an apple. I cracked the window just far enough to slip the apple through. Undoubtedly, they would have stuck their massive heads into our vehicles had they been given the opportunity.
Early Thursday morning on my solitary excursion, I drove parts of the Needles Highway and Iron Mountain Road. Once again, there were very few people out between 6 and 8 AM. I slipped the Beatles White Album into the CD player and listened to "Rocky Raccoon" over and over as I took in the breathtaking scenery. Early in the morning, the wildlife is even more visible. I lost count after about 50 deer. The solitude, brisk morning air and sunshine upon the towering granite formations lent to a peaceful, idyllic morning.
Weather: Sunny, hot afternoon... cool, perfect summer morning
Ease of Accessibility: A
Parking: B
Cost: A
Quality: A+
Crowds: B
Kid-Friendliness: B-
Handicap Accessibility: B
Overall Experience: A

1880 Train - Keystone, SD and Hill City, SD
Stations are located on the north end of each of the small towns of Keystone and Hill City.

One of the country's last steam trains in service, riders are transported aboard restored late 1800's coaches through rugged Black Hills terrain. The tour is about 3 hours round trip. At no point is Mt. Rushmore visible from the train, nor did the tour anything especially noteworthy by Black Hills standards. Sample point of interest: a garage that was built around a fallen boulder. The train tracks parallel a road, in fact it crosses it several times. So you can see the same sights from the road. They will sell you a tour guide / pamphlet for an extra two bucks, but it wasn't especially helpful. The train was crowded and our family could not all sit together. It was hot and the cars are open air (i.e. not air conditioned). The return trip is along the same route, so you see the same things twice. The 1880 Train might not be a bad idea if it's raining or if you are a railroad buff, but otherwise I don't recommend it. It's expensive, crowded, hot and boring. Parking in downtown Keystone is hard to come by, and you'll probably have a significant walk from your car to the train station. Riders may board in either Keystone or Hill City. Fare is $18 for adults, $10 for kids 4-14. Reservations are recommended. (605) 574-2222

Weather: Sunny, hot afternoon
Ease of Accessibility: C
Parking: C
Cost: D
Quality: D
Crowds: D+
Kid-Friendliness: D+
Handicap Accessibility: D
Overall Experience: D

Flintstones Bedrock City, Custer, SD
On US 16 about 1 mile west of town center.

This nice little touristy place is a 3-dimensional concrete recreation of the 2-dimension TV cartoon town of Bedrock... home to Fred and Wilma Flintstone. Hanna-Barbera characters roam the grounds. Visitors can take a ride in the "Flintmobile" and Iron Horse Train, visit with Fred and Barney and cap the day off with a Bronto Burger or Dino Dog at the Drive-In. Bedrock City is also home to a campground. As you might imagine, Flintstones Bedrock City is appealing mostly to young kids (~10 and under). They clearly had a problem with a certain species of bee or wasp which takes up residence in the crumbling concrete of this aging attraction. Don't expect much from Bedrock City, but it's not that expensive and it's fun for the little ones and it's not hard to get in and out. Admission is $6.00, kids under 5 are free. (605) 673-4079

Weather: Sunny, hot afternoon
Ease of Accessibility: A-
Parking: A-
Cost: B-
Quality: C
Crowds: B
Kid-Friendliness: B+
Handicap Accessibility: C
Overall Experience: C

One of the great joys of travel is discovering unique dining experiences. BJ's Grinder King and the Pheasant Dining Room provided two extremely different, yet thoroughly enjoyable dining experiences.

BJ's Grinder King - 902 Main Street, Rapid City, SD 57701 - DINING
Downtown. Turn off Mt. Rushmore Rd. onto Main St. (1 way). BJ's is on the right ~ 1 ½ blks

BJ's Grinder King is a delightful mom and pop pizza and grinder restaurant with booths, tables and a jukebox. What is a "grinder"? It's a New England term for a sub sandwich, only with a twist... they use shredded cabbage instead of lettuce and they're toasted. They have ham, roast beef, turkey, meatball and several other varieties of grinder (including eggplant). We had capicolla (Italian ham), tuna and Italian grinders along with a small cheese pizza. Bruce, the friendly owner of 20 years, has dubbed it "New England style pizza", though he confesses that he coined the term himself. New England style pizza has a thick (but not chewy or doughy) crust. It also has an insane amount of cheese. This pizza is outstanding and unique, but don't even try to add up the fat grams! Diners may want to consider using a fork. The menu also contains an eggplant pizza, but I was not feeling that brave. Prices are extremely reasonable, especially when the huge portion sizes are considered. BJ's Grinder King is in downtown Rapid City, but they have their own parking lot and it's very easy to reach. (605) 348-3166

Quality: A
Service: B+
Cleanliness: B
Ambiance: C
Prices: A
Overall Experience: A

Pheasant Dining Room, State Game Lodge - Custer State Park, SD - DINING
On US 16A about 2 mi. w of the intersection of US 16A and SR 36 - 14 mi. e of Custer.

This place is dripping with history. The State Game Lodge and Resort served as the "Summer White House" for President Calvin Coolidge in 1927 and was visited by President Dwight D. Eisenhower for several days in 1953. It was built in 1920, and is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. The rustic, homey decor and untamed environment belies the fine dining experience awaiting visitors in the Pheasant Dining Room. Their unique menu features wild game specialties prepared by a professional chef. Choose from buffalo ribeye, cowboy beef ribeye, roasted cornbread stuffed quails, elk loin, grilled salmon, red deer chops, fresh local trout, or one of a number of other entrees. A house specialty is the pumpkin seed encrusted pheasant breast served with cilantro rice and cumin spaghetti squash. (which I highly recommend.). Even the garden salads have flair... containing spiced candied pecans, oven dried apple chips and goat cheese. The servers are extremely knowledgeable and attentive. A children's menu is available (includes a buffalo burger). The Pheasant Dining Room's oneness with its beautiful surroundings and local culture provides for a truly one-of-a-kind experience. This is fine dining, therefore be prepared to pay. Our bill was $89 for two adults and two children. Reservations are recommended. (605) 255-4541

Quality: A
Service: A
Cleanliness: A-
Ambiance: A-
Prices: C
Overall Experience: B

Mt. Rushmore a magnificent and famous nugget of Americana, but it is truly just a part of everything the Black Hills has to offer. Nature and history lovers will be in heaven... there's plenty to do for the kids... just beware of high-priced tourist traps.

Black Hills and Badlands photos are posted on my website:
www.mikebechtol.com

Recommended:
Yes

Best Suited For: Families
Best Time to Travel Here: Anytime