A Salute to Naval History and Texas Battle for Independence
Written: Feb 21 '00
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Product Rating:
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Pros: Tour a WWII battleship or learn about Texas battle for independence from Mexico
Cons: Park could be better maintained, offer more amenities
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| mrkstvns's Full Review: San Jacinto Battleground |
Interested in Texas history? How about old World War II battleships? If either of these are up your alley, then take a trip out to San Jacinto Park in the southeast Houston neighborhood of La Porte.
There are two major attractions at the park: the 150 meter high monument to the battle of San Jacinto, and the battleship USS Texas. Admission to the park itself is free, although it costs $5 to tour the battleship, $3 to take the elevator to the observation deck in the monument, and $3 for the multimedia slide show. There is also a monument to submariners, particularly those from the Seawolf. The plaque on the submarine monument recalls how, after the destruction of the U.S. pacific fleet at Pearl Harbor, the submarines provided a critical defense against Japanese naval domination.
San Jacinto Monument
The San Jacinto Monument is a 150 meter (570 foot) high concrete tower capped by a Texas star. Inside the monument is a small museum chronicling the battle and Texas history, a theatre where a multimedia slideshow called Texas Forever describes how Texas won its independence from Mexico, and an elevator that whisks you to the observation deck where you can look out over the bayou, the ship channel, and the myriad chemical and petroleum plants that dominate the southeast Houston landscape.
Inside the monument is a small museum with various displays showing artifacts from various periods of Texas history, from its early establishment as a Spanish colony, its role as a state in northern Mexico, its push for independence from Mexico, and finally, its incorporation into the United States via treaty. Various items from different periods are displayed, including firearms of the type used in the early 19th century, vestment robes from the early Spanish missionaries, flags that have flown over Texas, and various books, maps, and other documents that chronicle aspects of the Lone Star State's fascinating history.
The real crux of the museum and the monument is to recall the Battle of San Jacinto, which took place on this site on April 21, 1836. The Texan army, under the command of General Sam Houston, had several small skirmishes leading up to this battle with the Mexican army, under the command of General Antonio Lopez de Santa Ana. Santa Ana. Santa Ana had the superior army and his forces had dealt the Texan army a series of setbacks in recent months. At this decisive battle, Santa Ana had expected to be attacked the night before the Texans attacked, and so built up reinforcements and kept his troops on alert through the night. But the Texans did not attack that night, instead, they waited until early afternoon and crept up close to Santa Ana's position. Santa Ana's men, now weary from watches throughout the night, were resting. Houston's men then mounted a surprise attack. Santa Ana's men surrendered within 20 minutes, and although Houston ordered his men to cease fighting, they disobeyed their orders and slaughtered soldiers who surrendered.
I really don't understand why the Texan army is honored for this day. If I were a descendant of one of the men who fought at San Jacinto, I would be ashamed of my forefathers' dishonorable display of brutal savagery and their complete and utter disobedience of their commander's orders to halt the slaughter of soldiers who had laid down their weapons and surrendered. When you hear about how the Texans conducted themselves during the battle, it's hard to think of them as anything but ruthless thugs. Their brutality is often painted as revenge for Santa Ana's victory at the Alamo. Sadly, atrocities are part of the nature of war. I just don't think it's appropriate to try to cast them in a favorable manner -- certainly Santa Ana is criticized in Texas for his brutality at the Alamo, but somehow, the Texans conveniently forget that their own troops were even more barbaric.
The Battle of San Jacinto was a pivotal point in Texas' bid for independence. With the defeat of Santa Ana's army, the Mexican government was no longer in a position to maintain control of the state.
Battleship Texas
The U.S.S. Texas (BB-35) was commissioned in 1914 and saw action in both world wars. The main weapons are 10 14-inch guns which could fire a shell weighing 3/4 ton almost 13 miles away! The ship is almost two football fields in length (573 feet) and carried a crew of more than 1,000 men.
Although the ship saw only limited action in World War I, she participated in several big battles of World War II, including the attack on Okinawa in the pacific theatre, and the invasion of Normandy in the atlantic. While attacking German positions on the coast of Cherbourg, the ship was hit by German artillery.
Between the two world wars, the Texas had new oil burners installed and other modifications (such as the removal of some 5-inch gun batteries). The ship was restored in the late 1980s, and work continues in parts of the ship that are not yet open to the public. Most of the ship is open to the public.
You can walk through the decks, seeing what the bunk rooms were like, where the crew ate, where they did laundry, and all the other day-to-day tasks of life at sea. You can also climb up on the anti-aircraft guns and sit in the seats where gunners once perched as they protected the ship from Japanese zeros or German Luftwaffe fighters. You can climb up narrow staircases to the upper decks, and can look out the windows on the ships bridge, seeing what kind of view the captain would have had.
I love touring warships. It really gives you an appreciation of the conditions that sailors lived in for months at a time (although I imagine it's quite a bit different when you're lying in the bunk while the ship is being tossed around in a North Atlantic gale, or when enemy artillery is dropping bombs all around you. Today, the ship serves as the only remaining vessel to have seen service in both world wars. It's a fascinating view fo naval history, and any kid would have to love getting up on a gunners seat, or ducking through a narrow passage to get up to the bridge. Heck! Even some of us old kids love it!
A small gift shop sells T-shirts, bumper stickers, books, and other souvenirs and novelties. Restrooms are available at the gift shop so use them before going on the ship since there are no facilities on board.
The Park
The park itself is mostly slightly rolling fields with some small scrubby trees. Buffalo Bayou and the Houston ship channel loop around the park, so you'll occasionally see freighters or barges cruising past as you walk around the park. There are picnic tables on both ends of the park, although the better ones are near the San Jacinto Monument. Bring lots of mosquito repellant as the blood-sucking brutes are so big that the FAA wants them to get flight licenses!
Overall though, the park is less pleasant than you may be used to if you're from out-of-state. Texas is notorious for not improving or maintaining what few parks it has. There are not that many picnic sites, and they're generally little more than a table under a tree. There are no pavilions, no nice grill areas, no nice playgrounds for the kids, and no boating facilities despite being right on the water. There are no other recreational facilities, such as tennis courts or soccer fields. So if you want a park that offers a lot of different kinds of things to do, you'll probably get bored at San Jacinto.
San Jacinto Park is located in southeast Houston in the La Porte area. To get there, take I-10 east from Houston and after passing beltway 8, watch for the exit to the park (I believe it's highway 134). This is the best way to get there since you have to cross the ship channel on a ferry boat (free), which adds a little interest to the journey. It's also possible to get there by taking highway 225 southeast from either the I-610 loop or beltway 8. No ferry ride this way, but you do get to pass mile after mile of petrochemical plant along with some of the most offensive odors you've ever smelled! The park is open 10 to 5 daily.
All in all, a trip out to San Jacinto Park is a pleasant enough way to spend a day. I'm not sure that I'd make a special trip for it, but if you're in Houston and looking for a place to do a little picnicking while at the same time seeing a few interesting historical sites, then you might enjoy San Jacinto Park.
Recommended:
Yes
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