Swept Away by Snoqualmie Falls
Written: Mar 30 '01 (Updated Apr 01 '01)
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Product Rating:
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Pros: Beautiful views.
Cons: During the best weather, the flow of water is minimal.
The Bottom Line: An impressive little trip, just a half hour from downtown Seattle.
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| LordBalfor's Full Review: Snoqualmie Falls |
Twenty miles east of Seattle (just off I-90), near the foot of rocky and rugged Mt Si, sits one of the Northwest’s most recognizable landmarks. Thanks to the now long cancelled TV show “Twin Peaks”, millions of viewers world-wide are familiar with beautiful Snoqualmie Falls (pictured in the opening credits) – and though the show is gone, interest in it apparently remains. And so they come (all 1 ½ million of them a year) – the TV shows’ devotees make their holy pilgrimage, the merely curious tag along for the ride, and those with no knowledge or interest in the show whatsoever nevertheless follow suit in search of sheer rugged beauty.
I suspect they all find what they are seeking.
Snoqualmie Falls is one of those “must see” attractions – places that locals always take their out of town visitors to. And, it seems, the visitors are always impressed – and why not: short of having toxic waste or raw sewage flowing over it’s face, there’s really no way that a waterfall can fail to thrill and inspire. A visit to any waterfall is pretty much guaranteed to bring a delighted smile to even the dourest face – and when it has a setting as gorgeous as this one – well, it goes without saying that it is absolutely beautiful.
The Snoqualmie River is born high in the Cascade Mountains, bastard offspring of high-country snows and heavy, lower-elevation rains. Beginning life as 3 separate forks, the headwaters scramble down the mountainsides in a wild rush to oblivion in the cold blue waters of Puget Sound. Near North Bend (also featured prominently in the TV show), the forks come together. Here they laze along the lush farmlands and dense forests (slowly giving way to upscale housing developments) of the Snoqualmie Valley. Surrounded by the towering tree-clad foothills of the Cascades, the scene is as pretty as you could hope for – peaceful, serene, and absolutely beautiful.
Suddenly, just downstream from the sheer jagged cliffs of 4,000 foot-high Mt Si (which my wife insists on calling the “Tarzan Mountain” because of its incredibly rugged appearance), the river makes an unexpected and dramatic leap. Squeezing through a narrow gap in the rocks, it gushes out into space before beginning the long, heart-stopping fall into the rocky pool below. From here (after passing through a short section of rapids) the river recuperates from its ordeal by continuing a long lazy ride to the sea. Along the way, it merges with the Tolt and later the Skykomish rivers (where the combined waters are renamed the Snohomish), before finally, just north of Everett Washington, the river slips quietly to it’s doom along the shores of beautiful Puget Sound.
Though folks are drawn to many pretty sites along its shores, it is Snoqualmie Falls itself that justifiably garners most of the attention. Here sits a world-famous restaurant and hotel (the Salish Lodge*), a lovely small park and gift shop, and finally, an impressive and dramatic overlook (hanging out into space some 300 feet above the base of the falls). The falls and park area are carefully maintained by Puget Sound Energy (PSE) which owns and operates two electric power plants there, one of which is buried deep in the rock at the base of the falls, the other of which is located downstream. This has become a point of contention as the local Indian tribe (the Snoqualmie) have long considered the site sacred. To them, the unfettered flow of the river is their paramount concern. PSE, on the other hand, is focused on maximizing their electrical output by redirecting the water flow through their turbines. Obviously, there is a problem reconciling these two views.
While I understand PSE’s position (I certainly don’t want my lights to go out), from a scenic perspective, the falls are much more beautiful with a more vigorous flow. This brings me to something of a dilemma. For those of you who have been kind (or curious) enough to read my review of Seattle weather (entitled: “The best time to travel to Seattle......or... ...Everything You Always Wanted to Know About Seattle Weather (But Were Too Waterlogged to Ask)”, you might remember that I recommend coming to Seattle during the mid-to-late summer (when the weather is at its warmest and sunniest). Unfortunately, when you can pretty much count on those sunny days there's not much water flowing over the falls, and when you can count on a fair amount of water (the rest of the time) it's likely to be cloudy or rainy. However, all things considered, I have to say that springtime is without a doubt the best time to see the falls. This is the time of year when the combination of heavy spring rains and rapidly melting snowpack results in veritable surge of water rushing down the river.
While late summer often produces a mere trickle of water, in spring the falls are absolutely awe-inspiring. Plummeting close to 270 feet (100 feet more than Niagara -though not nearly as wide), the roar of the water is deafening. The bowl-shaped basin (carved out by the rushing waters over the course of centuries) fills with a fine white mist, and the rocky pool at the bottom surges and seethes. It is just incredible, and the overlook (cantilevered out over the edge of the cliff) provides a truly heart-stopping view. Before you, a thundering white plume of sheer, unbridled power rockets past the precarious perch of the Salish Lodge, as Mother Nature reminds us that she still calls the shots.
During the days of the highest flow, the feeling of power can be overwhemling. I was there just this afternoon (refreshing my memory before writing this review) and the roar of the rushing water easily drowned out conversations of all but the closest people. I could literally feel the vibrations coming up through my feet from the overlook platform. - while far, far below, surging whitecaps lapped ferociously at the rocky shores. Opposite, on the far shore, could be seen the outflow tunnel (1215 feet long) for the upper powerhouse. Here water, fresh from an underground turbine discharge, rejoins the river once again (power has been generated at this station since the late 1890s). If you go there (and dare to stand upon the overlook), take note of what appears to be a lush green meadow directly beneath you (way, way down there). This looks like it might be a wonderful place to sit and take in the view – but nothing could be further from the truth – more on this later.
When you tire of the views from the top, you might consider a hike to the bottom (where the falls take on a whole different look). There are essentially 2 ways to do this: you can hike down the wide, well-maintained (though steep) ½ mile trail that begins near the overlook - or you can get back in your car and head west a couple of miles. There, just beyond a set of daunting hairpin turns you can take a side road to a gravel parking lot and from there hike a short distance to the bottom of the trail (this road was closed today for reasons that were not clear to me -perhaps flooding, perhaps earthquake damage).
If you are healthy and wearing good, comfortable shoes, I’d recommend walking down, for the trail takes you through a veritable wonderland of northwest forest, layered with salmonberry bushes, sword ferns and lush green moss. Overhead, among the stands of cedar and hemlock, broadleaf trees (I’m not sure what variety) lay heavy with the clinging moss. Some of the trees even sport thick clumps of ferns growing high among the trunks and branches. The air itself is thick with the rich, sweet, smell of life. It is a wonderful walk, and gives visitors a little taste of the richness of the Pacific Northwest rainforests. If however you are not up to the trail (or have small children with you) you might want to do the drive down. Either way, you arrive at the same place: the 2nd powerhouse (which sits at the base of a set of enormous water pipes directing the water flow down into another set of turbines).
Beyond the powerhouse, a wooden walkway guides you along the shore of the river to a rustic lookout where you will have terrific views of the rocky pool at the base of the falls as well the awe-inspiring site of the falls itself. Signs will warn you not to proceed any further – but these admonitions are largely ignored. Many folks (including myself, I have to admit) climb down from the wooden boardwalk and scramble out across the rocks for a better view.
From here, the entire “bowl” of the falls is visible, and it is hard not to be impressed. Atop the falls, Salish Lodge and restaurant cling tenaciously atop the rocky cliff-face, its broad plate-glass windows providing breathtaking views. Directly overhead, the wooden viewing platform looks ready to come down on top of you at any moment – and remember the lush green meadow you saw from up above? – now you can see what it really is. Through the magic of perspective, what appears from above to be a beautiful, level meadow, is in reality an incredibly sheer slope. Grassy it is. Flat it is not (unless you consider a 75-degree slope to be flat). If you choose to ignore the signs and proceed out to the edge of the pool, please be careful not to fall into the ice cold water. During times of heavy flow (in particular) the river can be very dangerous and several deaths have resulted.
All in all, a visit to Snoqualmie Falls is a worthwhile trip. While not quite the overwhelming experience of a visit to Mount Rainier or the Grand Coulee (see my reviews on those subjects for further details), it is a site most definitely worth seeing, especially considering how close it is to Seattle (roughly a half-hour drive). The combination of the beautiful waterfall, lush vegetation, towering mountains, and impressive man-made engineering combine to create a real winner.
So, if you are in the area, check it out. I suspect you’ll be glad you did.
* The Salish Lodge is a Northwest icon featuring a “world class” hotel and fabulous restaurant, both perched precariously at the top of the falls (and obviously offering some terrific views). Among the honors the hotel has received:
1) "One of the Top 100 US Hotels", Travel & Leisure, September 2000
2) Conde Nast Traveler, "Best Places to Stay in the World" Gold List winner, January, 1999
3) Travel and Leisure, "Top 25 Best Lodges in the U.S.", 1998
4) AAA Four-Diamond Award
Though very expensive, the restaurant too is worth checking out (if you can afford it). We had an anniversary dinner there once and it was WONDERFUL! The food was some of the best I have ever had, and the portions were HUGE. We ate waaaaaaay too much and left in pain – but it was worth it. WOW! The place actually offers 2 distinct restaurants, a more formal (and much pricier) Main Dinning Room and the less formal (and slightly cheaper) place on the top floor known as The Attic. Take note however that neither place is suitable for those on a budget. Still – if you can afford $12 or so for a Wild Mushroom Salad with candied walnuts and Old Amsterdam shavings or $35 for Seared Venison Loin, truffle gnocchi, bacon-braised brussel sprouts and sauce soubise, you might want to check it out.
The URL for their web site is:
http://www.salishlodge.com/
Note: For those of you who might be train buffs, you should also consider checking out the Northwest Railway Museum and the Snoqualmie Valley Railroad. Both are nearby and offer a chance to examine and ride some classic old steam engines - some of them have been lovingly restored, others are pretty much rusting hulks. Trains operate on Saturdays and Sundays from April through October. The URL to their web site is:
http://www.trainmuseum.org/
Recommended:
Yes
Best Time to Travel Here: Mar - May
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Epinions.com ID:
LordBalfor
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 - Top 1000 |
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Member: Ken Klein
Location: Seattle, Wa
Reviews written: 36
Trusted by: 109 members
About Me:
I am in love with the tropics (especially the South Pacific).
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