Doe Bay Village Resort - the Gem of the San Juans
Written: Apr 02 '00 (Updated Apr 02 '00)
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Product Rating:
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Pros: Incredible views, atmosphere, activities, and people
Cons: If you have an aversion to tie-dyed granola munchers, best stay away
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| Arazim's Full Review: Washington |
There are going to be many people that will be very angry with me for spilling the beans on what has been a "best kept secret" for years and years, and I've been reluctant to write reviews of my favorite places for fear of having them spoiled by the masses. But then I realized that the people I hope would be reading this are the kind of people that I would want to spend time with in a place as spiritually refreshing and relaxing as is the Doe Bay Village Resort located on Orcas Island in the San Juans. Roughly 65 miles north of Seattle, this is a 50 acre (or so) retreat that promises to leave you feeling renewed and invigorated.
I discovered Doe Bay Village Resort in the best possible way... by accident. While working for the Dept. of Fisheries on a salmon study, I was assigned to Orcas Island for two days. As a dedicated follower in the philosophy of procrastination, I waited until after completing my first day of work there to inquire on a place to sleep and eat. Not a good idea during the summer in the San Juans. Rooms and rates are at a premium, and planning ahead never sounded like a better idea.
After two hours of being turned away from every establishment I could find, I was finally referred to Doe Bay by a surly, crusty looking man named Verle, who was manning the register at a filling station. He took one look at my '69 VW Bug with the Bob Marley and Grateful Dead decals, a hard look at the hair falling down over my shoulders and paused a long time before speaking.
"I know a place for you. All your people go there." My people? Who are my people? Verle started to give me directions, barking out the words as though they were orders, and I scrambled to try to keep my mind focused on what he was saying. But all I could really think was what did he mean by my people? I took my change, thanked him as best I could, and went out to find a phone booth. I had picked up the name of the place at least, and figured I would call. A very pleasant lady told me I was welcome to come stay, and gave me directions.
I will say this. If you go to Doe Bay Village Resort, I recommend making your first visit there during the daylight hours, otherwise your experience might be accompanied by the same sense of uncertainty and foreboding that I felt upon approaching the Resort. The road appeared to narrow, the trees on both sides seemed to be encroaching uncomfortably and I begun to think I might be at the beginning of some "Children of the Corn" adventure.
But then I saw a sign. Doe Bay Village Resort ahead. I was on the right path. And an unusual sort of calm began to fill me. Do you remember your last sensation of being in the presence of magic? I'm not talking about the "watch me pull a wabbit out of my hat" variety, but the intuition that some spiritual force or gathering of energies is at hand. It is a sadly rare occurrence, but oh what a delight to find yourself wrapped up inside of it. I later discovered that this enrapture is tied up in the history of Doe Bay. If you want to have an interesting conversation there, get a group of people in the tubs and try contemplating whether the enchantment that is universally felt there is responsible for, or the result of the land's history.
Long ago, the Lummi Indians prized Doe Bay and considered it a sanctuary, holding potlatches there regularly. In the early 1900's a general store/post office was erected, and now serves as the resort's office. This building is now on the National Register of Historic Buildings. At one time or another Doe Bay has been home to an artist colony, the new-age commune known as The Polarity Institute, a health spa, and finally the resort, hostel and camping facility that it is now.
WHAT ABOUT THE FACILITIES?
Doe Bay offers a complete variety of sleeping arrangements as diverse and unique as the people who use them. Individual travellers are made to feel totally at ease, and the resort can easily support group retreats up to 20 people. Secluded duplex hideaways and Panoramic view cottages are very popular and inexpensive, though the prices have nearly doubled for some of the more requested sites since 1990, perhaps as a result of word of mouth creating new demand.
The Hostels are not restricted to youths, and offer a communal habitat for those on a very short shoestring, or just looking to meet new people. Tent camping, vehicle camping w/ water & electric hookups, a retreat house and a meeting hall are all available.
Yurts, greenhouse cabins, and one-room cabins are also available. At one time there was also a treehouse rental, though I can find no mention of it on Doe Bay's website. Oh, the website? Check it out by all means, at www.doebay.com. Pay careful attention to the policy page, which outlines in their words "The Rules of The Road." Most important is the requirements regarding attitude: "Bring an oversized towel or two, a flashlight, your sense of irreverent humor and be prepared to endure unknown levels of relaxation."
There is a vegetarian cafe on site, as well as a communal kitchen open to all visitors. A shower house provides free showers to all guests without private facilities in their cabins.
WHAT IS THERE TO DO?
The highlight of any trip to Doe Bay is the use of their amazing steam sauna and mineral bath complex. The complex is built next to a stream and waterfall and offers an outstanding view of the ocean and nearby islands. The sauna has three separate tiers and can comfortably hold up to 20. It is built from cedar and has stained-glass and octagonal windows, and is pure bliss. Just outside the doors to the sauna are three mineral baths, two hot and one cold. They are fed from mineral springs some 330 feet below, and heated to around 105 degrees. These facilities are clothing optional, and most opt to go without.
If you can drag yourself away from the tubs, you may choose to take advantage of the guided half-day kayak trips that leave from one of the resort's beaches ($30 per person), and treat yourself to the sights of waterfowl, harbor seals, and quite possibly a pod of orcas. Cycling and sailing rentals are also available, and mountain bikes make for a great way to visit nearby Moran State Park. This is the largest park in Washington State and has a large variety of hiking trails that lead to the 2400 ft. Mount Constitution, which has a breathtaking 360 degree view at its stone-tower summit.
There is a very large and active artists' community on the island, and shopping for hand-made crafts is a must. Eastsound is the largest city on the island and has excellent shops and galleries. For those of you inclined to play with your balls, the Orcas Island Country Golf club is open dawn to dusk.
After your day of adventure feel free to take advantage of the onsite massage facilities which offer multiple styles and techniques to suit your pleasures. Or join a meditation group or cooking class. Whatever. Maybe join in a pick up volleyball game, or comb the beach.
A word of caution. Riding bikes on the main roads of the island is risky business, as many are curvy, narrow and hilly, and drivers are not necessarily attuned to your presence.
If you are still iffy on whether this place sounds suitable to you, here's my final story. The night of my first visit, as I made my way to my cabin, I became aware that a very friendly and persistent cat was on my heals. She followed me right inside and made herself at home on the bed before I'd even set down my bags. I was in a hurry to check out the baths, but didn't want to kick out (or trap in) my new roommate. Strangely enough, the window did not have a screen, and didn't appear to have a way of locking (which I found oddly comforting), so I cracked it in case she chose to leave in my absence. When I returned hours upon hours later, I was cleansed, purified, but she was gone. And I was sad. As I stretched to close the window, my feline friend jumped through and landed with a thud against my chest and began to nuzzle my neck. I couldn't help but giggle out of both shock and amusement, plus it tickled... you know how it is. The little lady made me feel like I belonged. And as I fell asleep I realized just how right Verle had been. I had found "my people." Upon leaving, I knew that I was both taking a piece of Doe Bay with me, and that a part of me would always remain there. And so it is.
Recommended:
Yes
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Epinions.com ID:
Arazim
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Member: Matt Carsel
Location: Hilo, HI
Reviews written: 35
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About Me:
"I am, therefore I think."
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