Chamonix- The death sport Capital of the World!!!
Written: Dec 02 '99
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Product Rating:
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Pros: unbelievable scene, cool town, great pastries, and danger galore
Cons: the scariest intermediate ski areas in the world.
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| kristenulmer's Full Review: Chamonix |
CHAMONIX
Ahhh, smell the adrenaline. It's pure grade-A Chamonix, and it's goooood.
Are you ready for the death sport capital of the world? The best skiers, snowboarders, mountaineers, base jumpers, ice and rock climbers, and paraponters respect Chamonix as the center of the universe. These peoples' testicles are so huge (on the women too), if you snipped them all and put 'em in a pile, you could see the swell from outer space.
Go to Cham and watch 60-year-olds climbing ice with old, stained tools, or 5th-graders paragliding in the middle of January. Death sport ambassadors from almost every country in the world, hell there's even a ski bum from India, move there and daily risk their lives doing some of the sickest sports on the planet.
Visit and you'll finally know, for sure, that Vail sucks. America may be called the land of the free, but as athletes we don't understand real freedom until we visit Chamonix. There are no boundaries. It could dump 5 feet and create the worst avalanche danger known to man, but go ahead and ski the steep chute if you want. The patrol will just shake your hand and say Au Revoir. Because of this freedom, most American athletes would rather visit Chamonix during a low snow year than hang home during a high snow year.
But living there is bad; it changes people. The more time in Chamonix, the more death seems irrelevant. Between 30-50 people die in accidents every year. Imagine this statistic in Aspen; the Government would mobilize the army, evacuate the town and erect a 30 foot high electric fence.
Many heroes die extreminating, but plenty of mellow tourists also bite it. The ski areas, containing mostly intermediate terrain, are located on glaciers with big crevasses. On a powder day people push further out to the freshies until someone falls Kerplunk, into a hole. A few days after a storm, if you're still skiing untracked; LOOKOUT! You're in the wrong place.
If the crevasses don't kill you, the French attitude will. I mean, they make really good pastries and all, but is it enough to drive a stick THAT far up their butts? What the hell?
Okay, crevasses, attitudes, and oh yeah… full contact lift lines, smoky bars, low ceilings, no stand-up showers, short beds, tiny grocery stores and the severe cluster of living in a 30X15 apartment with 6 smelly guys. Buy a two pound chocolate bar, take one bite, turn around and it's gone.
But you'll remember it as the coolest trip of your life.
WHAT TO DO: If you like risk, ski or snowboard the steep backcountry classics; The Ensa or two Poubelle couloirs, The Glacier Ronde and many more. Be careful, a fall could send you home in a box. Check out the Aiguille Du Midi, the highest aerial tram in the world, and certainly try Parapenting. If you want information about guides, call the Compagnie des Guides at 04 50 53 22 08, or Le Office de Haute Montagne at 53 22 08, who also has maps, condition reports and other mountain information.
For a more mild adventure ski The Haute Route. Or just sip café in town and watch an international parade of hammered mountain folk grinding around with their gear-clanging backpacks and million-mile stares. You can't swing a cat without hitting one of these guys.
DRINKS: Like red wine? Superb!!! And don't hold back, drink until you fall on your face because studies say red wine is actually good for you!
The night life in Chamonix is out of control, especially with so many Swedes and Australians running around. There are dozens of cool bars and discos. Start by checking out whatever band is downstairs at La Cantina. Les Choucas is also mandatory, complete with loud music and adrenaline-provoking death-sport movies.
EATS: The Samoyed is a tex-mex joint owned and operated by an American, located in the quiet, popular town of Argentier 9 klm north-east of Chamonix. It would be a shame to go all the way to France for a burrito, so also clog your arteries at Le Fer a Cheval, they make the best fondue in town. (118 Rue Whymper).
The locals are known to be addicted to late night Boulouga sandwiches. Look for anyone with garlic sauce smeared on their face and ask directions.
SLEEPS: Unlike American ski towns, where a bargain hotel is anything less than $300 a night, there are plenty of cheap places to stay in and around Chamonix. Try the Auberge de Jevnesse hostel at 53 14 52, although they only provide weekly packages in Winter. Cheap beds ($10-20 a night) can be had at the Chalet Ski Station (53 20 25), the Gite le Chamoniard Volant (53 14 09), the Gite La Montagne (53 11 60), or in Argentier; La Belvedere (54 02 59). Most of these provide a bed in a crowded room and a kitchen.
For a truly unique experience, call Gary Bingham (54 17 85). He runs a package out of his home called Vitamin Ski. It's a guaranteed good time.
A mid-priced centrally-located option is the Hotel Du Stade (53 05 44), and an expensive option is the Hotel Gustavia (53 00 31). If everything seems full, and if you plan on visiting for at least three nights, call the Cenrale de Reservations Hotelieres (53 23 33), who can find you a room. Good luck.
LOCAL SECRETS: Anyone who plays hard in Chamonix buys rescue insurance called the Carte Neige. For around $35 a year, it will cover even a helicopter evacuation for mildly bruised ribs. It's a great deal, but did you know France provides free off-piste rescues anyway? Buy the card for international or on-piste rescues only. They can be purchased at the Office Du Tourism located in central Chamonix.
Recommended:
Yes
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Epinions.com ID: kristenulmer
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Member: Kristen Ulmer
Location: Salt Lake City, Utah
Reviews written: 25
Trusted by: 91 members
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