Val Thorens... Où la poudreuse, c'est toujours super!
Written: Jan 14 '02 (Updated Jan 14 '02)
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Product Rating:
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Pros: Got snow, will ski
Cons: High altitude/dizziness at first; hard to reach; can be expensive
The Bottom Line: looking for SNOW? Seek no further!
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| elsa70's Full Review: Val Thorens |
Here in the European world of winter sports, we've been shedding tears throughout our winter vacation... Unless you have a humidifier, it's been so dry and cold your eyes just keep on watering! Add to that the great anticipation so many - I'm one of them - had for a white Christmas, and the urge to run out and try those great new skis we couldn't afford but decided to splurge on anyway, and you've got one huge crowd of crying ski addicts!
But alas, there still is one last resort that will save you from despair. And that will most definitely be Val Thorens,the highest ski resort in Europe, part of the greatest ski "circus" we have in the Old Continent, and perhaps, the largest in the world: Les Trois Vallées.
Les Trois Vallées:
Nestled amidst the southern French Alps, close to Grenoble, lie four villages-charmant, all recently developed, with a different architectural flair.
In the first valley lies Courchevel, a large, typical French Savoie resort built on two different altitudes (1650 and 1850 meters); at 1400 meters, in a second valley, is Méribel, a quaint traditional wood-chalet "boutique" resort. In yet another valley, Les Menuires, an impressive, ultra modern sky-scraper grazed, high-tech resort located at 1,850 meters; and beyond Les Menuires, perched at what appears to be the pinnacle of these magnificent mountains, at the grand altitude of 2300 meters (7,544 ft) lies Val Thorens.
All of these villages, plus a few other minor resorts (such as Saint Martin de Belleville and La Tania) are connected to each other and make up for over 600 kilometers (that's over 350 miles!) of skiable slopes that are known as the great Domaine of Les Trois Vallées.
The Trois Vallées is an immense "bowl" of valleys and slopes which extend over 6 glaciers, and provide excellent conditions for skiing both in the winter and summer time.
This area is extensively covered by over 200 lifts, of which 2 are high-capacity cable cars and 39 gondolas. There is virtually no wait, no queues, ever, because the combined capacity of these lifts is enormous - the new Grand Fond has an hourly capacity of 3000 persons per hour! The Trois Vallées also count 68 high-speed chair lifts and 87 tow ropes, the latter being gradually replaced by moving carpets in the beginners' slopes area.
Ah, yes, slopes. Well, I don't know exactly how many slopes there are in all of the Trois Vallées area, but the marked ski runs are over 120.
50% of the runs are for beginners (green or blue diamond marked runs), 35% are medium to advanced tracks (red diamond), and 15% are black diamond, advanced pistes for expert skiers.
The slopes are built around the three valleys so that anyone, from beginners to die-hard pros, can find a feasible route to ski within the entire Trois Vallées area from 9 a.m. to 5p.m. nonstop without ever having to ski on the same slope twice during the day. The easier downhills are located in the lower part of the area, with the top crests being the most challenging (and satisfying) runs.
All beaten tracks are exceptionally well-maintained, both in fair and poor weather conditions (I've heard they boast over 1,400 snow cannons!). There is of course an immense realm of off-piste downhills to choose from, and getting lost is nearly impossible.
What's best, almost all of the resorts'accomodations are located at the foot of a main slope, so there's virtually no walking whatsoever, just hop on your skis and go for the day! Moguls, powder, off the beaten track, boarding, whatever you're craving for, you'll find it in Les Trois Vallées.
Val Thorens:
My first trip to Val Thorens was back in 1991. At the time, all I was looking for was a place where I could definitely ski given the low snowfall and off-season period (Halloween). I had been impressed by the immense region I could ski on and the vast possibilities offered when most other resorts were closed, but was vaguely disappointed with the ski station itself. I've returned twice since my first experience and must say the entire region has greatly improved both in terms of facilities and accomodations, and Val Thorens has been the one resort that has made the greatest leap toward becoming an attractive, functional and tourist-friendly international ski spot.
Val Thorens is now a quaint village entirely constructed around its slopes. It faces the north - with the Massif Peclet, the highest peak, dominating at the South - but lies in a conch that's wide enough to ensure plenty of sunlight. The resort's altitude may require some time to get adjusted to, and I always experience a bit of lightheadiness for the first few hours upon my arrival; but it also guarantees clear, sunny days for most of the year, being the resort set above most of the clouds. The view is, of course, breathtaking; but for a truly unique experience, if you're an advanced skier, I recommend a trip to the "Aguille du Peclet", the highest point at the top of the glacier - you'll be gazing down to the entire France southern Alp region, counting over a hundred mountain peaks, and feel like you're reached the gateway to Heaven! Quite stunning.
The center of the town itself is pedestrian, and is entirely built by traditional Savoie standards - stone and wood Alpine-styled cottages and lodges, a few high-story buildings that do not spoil the landscape and many small chalets that are reminiscent of original, last-century villages. All of the hotels and apartment facilities offer direct access to the slopes, which is a godsend - you don't want to have to juggle with your skis in your arms for a half-mile walk after 8 hours of downhill skiing...
Most hotels are quite functional and feature high-standard lodging and food. There are some world-class accomodations, such as the superior class Fitz Roy hotel or the Val Thorens hotel, but I personally don't believe it's worth the expense. I enjoyed the most Le Portillo, at the very center of the ski station, a family-run three star (moderate) hotel that featured three excellent restaurants, spacious and beautifully appointed rooms, ski storage locker rooms, and quite acknowledgeable hospitality.
My last stay was at Le Sherpa, another traditional three-star hotel with a fine restaurant, great service and a very pleasant environment. Other safe bets are the Trois Vallees hotel, somewhat outdated but a good value and a very charming bar and lounge, and the Montagnettes du Soleil, a satisfying compromise between residential apartments and a hotel. There are also dozens of residences and apartment complexes, and the village itself on a whole counts over 16,000 beds for lodging purposes, so you're certain you'll find the perfect match to your requirements - and your budget.
Just don't fall for one of those all-inclusive resorts, such as the Club Med' (located in Les Menuires, but just to give you an idea): you'll get more from your money if you pay for all those extra services separately. For instance, the 4 ski schools in Val Thorens all boast exceptionally prepared instructors providing an immense range of services, at more competitive rates than those offered in Med-style packages.
If the hotel of your selection offers you the option of choosing a meal plan, I strongly advise not to settle for anything more than bed and breakfast . Whilst on the slopes, there are plenty of restaurants and bars scattered throughout the valleys which offer a wide selection of both served and take-away entrées. And as far as dinner is concerned, the resort offers a whopping 70 restaurants and bars from which to choose from: an extensive selection that is sure to suit anyone's craving, from traditional "bistrots" to international cuisine (Mexican, Dutch, Italian...) to refined gourmet restaurants.
Après-ski entertainment is also a main attraction at Val Thorens, with an ever-growing nightlife supported by various clubs, pubs, bars and discos. Actually, at times I found the nightlife in Val Thorens to be somewhat too boisterous and loud; there are a number of English, Irish and Dutch pubs to which young wild souls seem to flock and spend their entire night getting trashed. I don't know how they can find the energy to face all that skiing the morning after..
However, as the good old Latins used to say, "De gustibus disputandum non est.." To each his own. If you're in for night-clubbing, there are certainly some good spots in Val Thorens: the Malaysia Bar with the annexed disco Beach Club is very popular, and the Frog and Roast Beef is a favorite spot for the locals. Another hype bar is a Dutch bar called Bloopers...Outrageous! But they seemed to be having fun...
If you're planning on traveling with your family, there are a number of attractions for children as well, and there's always something new in the non-ski section at the Maison du Tourisme (the tourist board, located in the center of the village). If for some reason you're not out there on those magnificent slopes, be sure to stop by and check their programmes out.
All in all, the Val Thorens locals are very cheerful and pleasant with tourists gathering from the four corners of the world, and definitely not your typical, snooty French stereotype. You'll truly enjoy their assistance and, at times, their company. They'll go out of your way to make your vacation the most enjoyable and fulfilling.
how to make the most out of your stay while in the Trois Vallées:
First of all, if you're planning on giving 100% of yourself to the slopes, you'd be better off purchasing a ski pass that covers the entire 3 Vallées region. It may seen quite expensive at first, but you'll definitely appreciate it once you're out there in the snow.
When you plan your trip, if it's been a season that has ensured plenty of snow, you'd be better off staying at Méribel or Courchevel in order to best experience the immense ski area, because they're better connected to the other valleys. Méribel stands in the center of the domaine, and Courchevel is by far the largest ski resort of this area. However, if it's been a dry season, such as this has been so far, you're best at Val Thorens, where most - if not all- of the lifts will be guaranteed to be operating.
Val Thorens can be quite costly if you don't plan your expenses carefully. During the French winter vacation (mid-February) and the Dutch spring vacation (beginning of April) prices skyrocket. They are even higher than New Year's rates! Choose the most appropriate dates so that you vacation doesn't overlap with theirs. Once you're in Val Thorens, watch your bills at restaurants and pubs. Especially alcoholic beverages can add up to astounding checks!
Also, give extra thought to your traveling plans. the Trois Vallées are not easy to reach by any international airport. Should you fly in from Geneva or from Turin, map your route carefully, and be prepared for heavy traffic as the Frejus tunnel is the only passage that is currently open between France and Italy, so this is an area that can easily be congested with cars and trucks.
But these are just peevish details...There is hardly a negative point I can think of when it comes to Les Trois Vallées and Val Thorens. If you truly enjoy winter sports and you're seeking for a most memorable experience, Val Thorens is the place to go!
You can find plenty of useful and detailed information, and make reservations at the following websites:
www.val-thorens.com
www.valthorens.com
www.les3vallees.com
Other useful links may be:
www.thealps.com/resort/index.asp?name=valthore
www.valtho.com
www.france.com/francescape/ski/valthore.html
should you need airport transfers,
www.3vt.co.uk
Go out and get into that powder! (or just dream of it..)
Thanks for reading! Daniela
Recommended:
Yes
Level of Experience Needed: All Best Time to Visit: March Best Suited For: Friends
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Epinions.com ID: elsa70
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Location: Ciao, baby.
Reviews written: 33
Trusted by: 24 members
About Me: temporarily out of order. ZZZZZZZ.
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