Having Lived there....
Written: Nov 14 '05
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Pros: Even the cons are in someway pros in Zermatt. beauty,friendly nature, liveliness, solitude
Cons: If I must - tourists , cost, and electros - dangerous little buggers!
The Bottom Line: A must see, must live in, must experience resort. Nothing like it and if you visit you'll see why families have been going season after season for years
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| nopunxfx's Full Review: Zermatt |
An English National, I grew up in Geneva and Zermatt has always had a mythical presence when the ski season comes around. So imagine my delight when I get offered a job in said talked about and idolized resort for a winter season.
There is little I do not love about Zermatt, its beauty I swear has ruined me for any other sight as even while watching sunsets in Thailand my mind drifted back to snow capped peaks and hot chocolate on the mountains.
Sking in zermatt goes without saying to be great. Having skiing through out the Alps (Verbier and Chammonix and like as well as local Genevoise resorts) Zermatt has some of the funnest skiing with a nice range of areas to choose from. For a full days worth you can head to Trocknersteg and the Matterhorn or over to Cervinia. If you want somewhere quietier then Gernergrat is always surprisingly light of skiers for most of the season and you have to visit its "Igloo bar" for Gluvin. And for those days after a long hard apres-ski there is Sunnegga, a ten minute trip in the internal mountain train will leave you with a collection of fun and easy areas to get you stomach and mind back in gear. (Stop at the Blauherd resturant mid-day to hear the fun Blauherd band play anything from Wonderwall to La Bamba).
One of the best things about skiing in Zermatt is that the traditional skiing heirarchy (the I've skied here, here and here and with so and so which makes me the best) is completely nonexistant. Its surprising considering the caliber of some of the skiers but as long as you can get down a slope everyone understands the "you learn from those better than you" attitude. There is also very little resort slagging (Chammonix suck because....verbier is so much better than Zermatt because...), I like to believe this is because they all know Zermatt is one of the best resorts and dont feel the need to make a point. Zermatt speaks for itself.
I'm afraid I cannot comment on the posher restaurant food in Zermatt (I was only a poor worker and so could not afford the nicer restaurants)but the places I ate regularly throughout the season were The Post (Brown Cow) which does fabulous design-your-own sandwiches and pizzas at a decent low budget price, and The Pipe whos vibrant "surfers cantina" atmosphere makes a refreshing change from swiss chalet style. My tip would be to head for the North Wall bar should you be looking for some cosy atmosphere, especially if you like sking/snowboarding, climbing and paragliding as the staff there are freindly and fun with bottomless knowledge about the resort and its sport. The North Wall is also the "enlgish workers bar" so you can garantee the atmosphere will be light a cheer and you can usually pick up advice as to where the party is tonight.
As for Apres-ski and into the night, no where for me beats the papperla and schneewittchen for a good night out. Friendly staff and one of the most entertaining men behind the bar at Apres-ski time the Papperla and Schnee are good clean fun with some dirt thrown in for free. If your still up on the mountain, and in the Sunnegga area, then one spot to hit is definatley Chez Veroni with its deck chair and blanket balcony and its efficient service you can while away the afternoon in the lazy sun in comfort whith the occasional Swiss Yodelers for entertainment. Coming down from Gonergrat or Matterhorn? head for Hennu Stall (translates into Chicken coop, but dont hold that aginst them!) the out door bar is young and bubbly and this is greatly due to the fabulous Hennu Stall band who play every afternoon. Not only can then actually play and sing but they do it reasonably well with a mix from ska to the oldies they will get you wanting to dance (which wont be hard after a couple shots of Jagermeister!)
I could go on more about the great night life, the Sunday nights at Village (back at the Post where the Hennu stall band play and nearly all the workers relieve a weeks stress) or watching the European cup in the Brown cow but most of this is taste and you may find you prefer the Pink (a more classy music club with professional musicians visiting) or Grampis (great pizzas, club and bar downstairs)or Papa Ceasers (Back in the post and upstairs, a cocktail lounge with fabulous bar staff) so instead I will say that Zermatt is wonderful.
The night life, if you want it to be, can be great and people are generally very open to talking with strangers and getting to know people but the daytime can be just as great. What I miss when I am away is not the nights out and the drunken walks home but walking up the mainstreet and watching people as they go. There is every type of person, from 2 months to 98 years and from every culture (though predominately white, my friends an I were surprised that we were surprised to see and notice two black guys walking around). The town is quiet, friendly and accomodating, the Matterhorn is striking and to this day I am struck with awe everytime I see it (No joke, I even miss it when the weather hides it behind clouds). If you do visit I can garantee that there are few other places on this earth that can change you like Zermatt can if you let it.
Now some may say that the winter if great, skiing and climbing and going out, but in the summer it dies. If anyone says this I should hope you look at them like they are crazy and turn away as they clearly have never spent a summer here. It is, if possible, even more chilled in the summer than in the winter, with less tourists. The big difference is made by the fact that everyone works like crazy in the winter rush of trouists that when the summer comes everyone kicks back and this because the atmosphere of the town. Walkings up to Furi ( a nice short and not too strenuous walk) gives great views, tranquillity and beautiful flora and fauna. near the speileplatz (playground) and between the tennis courts is a grass area with (usually) and net up for volleyball. Climbing areas open up and everyone mingles and shares stories from the winter of tales of travel and festivals come by the doezen (Every couple of weekends). If you can be around on the 1st of August for Swiss National day. Along with a parade from each of the Vallais resorts/areas there is traditional dress and music and with the night comes the party and singing happy birthday to Switzerland. There are also weekend sporting activities from the football tournement (watch the middle age barmen take on the trim sports shop workers, always a good laugh! The portugese usually win)to carnivals and the run (from Zermatt to Schwarzee i think).
As with all things there has to be atleast one con, and these were the only ones I could drag up.
Firstly, though it is a cars free resort, we do have electros and it seems people forget that they are around and walking in the middle of the road at an idle stroll. Because of this the elctros become rediculously dangerous at times, flying past people (they are silent, and only a few have bells) so just keep and eye out for them and stick to the sidewalks!
Second, tourists. I know anyone who visits is a tourist, but you know the type i mean. The ones who havent a clue where they are or what they are doing and tend to stop in front of you when your in a rush. We also get our fair share of group tourists, asian groups that come for a day, take photos of the matterhorn and leave again (this amuses us occasionally when the weather is bad, as they are only here for a day and the matterhorn is hiding.)I would love to keep zermatt to the locals but lets face it, without tourists, half the town would be empty so the only thing I ask is that, should you be American in particular, please mind what you say as almost everyone speaks some english, and on that note, when ordering (this is for everyone, not just Americans) you do not need to speak slowly or over articulate - most of these people speak english fluently. And if they dont understand the first time, just repeat again for them.
The final down point, for me atleast, is the cost. Its not a cheap resort and merely getting from the trainstation in Geneva it costs 180 SFr. Cheaper accomodation can be found but if your coming with friends, or atleast not alone, go for an apartment - cheaper and in my opinion, nicer.
Now, after all that, I will leave you with this - Zermatt, should you ever find yourself there, is undoubtedly one of the most beautiful places on earth and I hope it effects others the way it effects me.
Recommended:
Yes
Level of Experience Needed: All
Best Time to Visit: August
Best Suited For: Friends
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Epinions.com ID:
nopunxfx
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Reviews written: 1
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